Recent content by erasedhammer

I dont see much online for the bracketry. There's one ebay listing for one bracket. AC compressor Bracket GM 14033866 Not sure if that is the correct one. Does any big block chevy have an equivalent mounting system and bolt patterns? Junk yards around me have some big block 1980 chevy trucks...

It appears the brackets reuse the standard drivers alternator base bracket? Just going by the power steering bracket and those mount points. Hard to find more pictures of m1010 setups online though.

I'm looking at the parts TM for the M1010 Air conditioning but the page (Figure 251 from TM 9-2320-289-20P) doesnt have a part number listed for the brackets, despite the diagram labeling the bracket as part 11. I guess they consider these parts "lifetime" and never offer replacements? Sure...

Belt for the larger groove pulley is a Gates XL 7475 11A1205. I would be hesitant about that exact belt. It is just a little bit too long. When the PS pump is tensioned, it is still a bit loose compared to the inner belt. Haven't had any squeaks when turning though. Id say if you could find a...

Its looking more and more like I should attempt to wedge an AC compressor in where the drivers alternator went. I'm not really sure if I should go with an A6 or R4 compressor. Both seem available and "fit" according to rock auto...

That looks like a good option. Do you happen to know what part number it is on their site? They appear to have a ton of options for chevy compressor mounting.

I definitely agree that a serpentine setup is better and more reliable. But even pulling all the components from a junk yard truck would still cost a bit, and be very time intensive to pull the entire front end of an engine thats junk (to me) in a couple years. Definitely cheaper than buying all...

With summer being here, I am diving into the task of adding AC to my m1028. The AC kits around that replace the entire air box and come with all the controls, ducting, vents, lines, and condenser look to be a turn-key option for not a ton of money (currently looking at the classicautoair kit)...

A quick follow-up to the LMC truck stainless kit. I decided to go with it because it was an easy option for long lasting brake lines. One big caveat, they do not sell a kit for K30's and so, the rear lines going into the load sensing brake valve do not fit at all. I also ran into issues with...

At least for mine, 98 NV4500, the driveshafts didnt move at all. With the advance adapters bellhousing, it is the exact length as the th400.

I wonder what the market is like for frame assemblies. My frame is pretty much covered in rust, yet to see any perforations though (other than brackets). I hope to soon pull the body and drivetrain out and do a hot dip galvanization, might be easier with a less rusty frame and just do a swap...

That kit looks very enticing. I am concerned that I have a dually K30, and their kits only go up to K20 (1/2 ton). I'd hope the brake lines are rated for the higher gvwr. It looks like #34-5633 (Brake Line Kit-8pc-Pwr Longbed 4 Wheel Drive 1/2 Ton 81-87) is the one that might fit a CUCV.

Thanks for the offer, but I want to make my own lines from stainless steel to avoid the rusting issue in the future. I'm mainly looking for part numbers to specific specs (thread size, count, hex size, tube diameter) so I can identify which sections use what and not waste time or money...

I tried looking up some part numbers for the inverted flare fittings in the brake system, but I cannot find any details about the thread spec or nut size, if the part number even exists. And the few posts on here I hear reference to 3/16 and 1/4" tube sizes. But the part #s won't tell me... Can...

I don't mind taking a ton of time to do it either. Its a long term project, and can be divided up into small portions. 304 stainless is pretty common to find in higher grades, but 316 is almost impossible to find with tensile strengths around 150k PSI. If I'm going to the trouble of replacing...