Recent content by Ray70

That sounds like both injectors are firing at least. Did you test it without any load on it? It is still possible that the injectors are dirty or otherwise not spraying correctly, but at least they are not frozen closed. There could also still be an injector timing issue, but that would be very...

I suppose so! That means you are legally obligated to go out and buy more.... just to be safe!

On the o-ring gasket, there are 2 of them, however in your picture the 2nd one is still inside the block. That tube is a short stub with o-rings on both ends. on the thermal switch wires, polarity does not matter, it's just a switch, not a sensor.

Now I'd try a continuity test from VR 5 and 6 to F+ and F- on the exciter board ( item #10 ) as Kurt indicates in his chart above. If you find an open circuit on either wire, work backwards testing closer and closer to the VR until you find the disconnect point.

That strip is of little importance. You can go to Home Depot and get a roll of sticky back foam rubber tape and use that instead. They typically have a selection of sizes and thicknesses in with the door sweep and replacement gaskets, most in plastic bags made by Frost King

Well, the good news is that since it was able to hold a full load in the past, to me that indicates the governor arm is most likely not bent, the "fork" adjustment should be fine, that plus that fact that you can't always get it to rev. up by manipulating the linkage leads me back to thinking a...

For future reference you can go to the top of the forum page. You will see a bar with "Rules" "TM" and "Vendor Spotlight" listed towards the right. Click on "TM" then click "Generator and Electrical TM's" Then find the MEP-802A section ( currently the 3 one down on the 1st page ) This is where...

Section 2-27 on pages 95/96

If you can't get the gasket in time, you can also purchase a 12"x12" square of gasket material from your local auto parts store and cut out your own gasket. It's actually pretty easy, I've done it many times on other projects. These days there are many automotive applications that use silicone...

Take the fuse out of the holder and test it. it is a slow blow fuse, but there is no such thing as a time delay reset fuse. Remove it and retest it.

$48!? Does that particular TM weigh 40 lbs. or something? it should qualify for USPS media mail for like $5, sounds like someone is trying to rip you off.....

Ah, I see... I read where you said Hz at 60 and everything else was working and I assumed that meant the outlet was also working. Looking above it looks like voltage there is a gen head issue, or regulator problem. When you said Quad fuse was good, I assume you tested with a meter?

Make sure you get every last speck of sand out of the thermostat housing and the water passages. Also might want to change the gasket #12 between the Water pump and the intermediate plate while it's apart.

Didn't you already say the HZ meter and outlet were working? if so you are making power. I've just skimmed over this whole thread briefly, but if sounds like you simply aren't getting K1 to close, correct? If you have Hz reading, have a voltage reading and the outlet works then the only thing...

YUP, just be careful, the center of the filter is usually the downstream / output side, so anything you pour in will go unfiltered into the pump. Not a big deal in my opinion as long as no dirt gets in there. Another option would be to dump the fuel out of both filters, pour seafoam into the...