- 7,338
- 10,293
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
It is 5/8" ID hose
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A/C Diagnostic help
- Thread starter Pstyckiewicz
- Start date
- 103
- 63
- 28
- Location
- Miami Beach
does that make it a 3/4 OD...? or even 1"...?
- 7,338
- 10,293
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
I would think pretty close to 7/8"
- 103
- 63
- 28
- Location
- Miami Beach
ok so just to let other people know: After installing the valve depicted in Post #58 in line, WHAT A DIFFERENCE !
- 103
- 63
- 28
- Location
- Miami Beach
I noticed something very similar to that on mine too.
Thunderbirds
Well-known member
- 297
- 432
- 63
- Location
- Northern Black Hills South Dakota
I think it is normal since the push pull cable will only activate the valve a 1/4 turn. Some have a "stop" detent built into the valve, but most do not.
- 103
- 63
- 28
- Location
- Miami Beach
I must say: SUBSTANTIAL IMPROVEMENT in the A/C temperature after installing the valve, also I have to say that previously I had disconnected the servo and manually pushed the little lever all the way forward but realize that it DID not slide all the way even gently forced with players, (sometimes that valve gets stuck).
I installed my valve. No cable yet. But it seems to let fluid through, even when shut. I stupidly ordered thenone
At idle, My front ac is only cool while the rear unit is cold.
with any rpm the front begins to heat up real quick while the rear stays cold.
so I’m guessing it’s a bad valve or maybe I installed it backwards??
At idle, My front ac is only cool while the rear unit is cold.
with any rpm the front begins to heat up real quick while the rear stays cold.
so I’m guessing it’s a bad valve or maybe I installed it backwards??
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 738
- 467
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
I have my original metal cable actuated valve and kept it while I retrofitted my truck to the latest AC system. Just got it charged up today and it blows cold. I checked the valve visually before reinstalling it and after installing it I function tested it to see if it fully blocked hot water flow to the heater core. It has a large range of motion and needs to be fully counterclockwise against the "stop" to be fully closed
- 103
- 63
- 28
- Location
- Miami Beach
If the valve is like the one depicted in #66, there is no right/wrong way to install it, that is the one I have and it either stop the flow or lets it through.... (or anywhere in between) regardless of the "Direction" you installed it in.
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 738
- 467
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
That valve should be turned 180 degrees and mounted on the heater side of that elbow to be oriented properly and to accept the cable correctly. The coolant to the valve/heater should be coming from the crossover assembly (that has the thermostat housing). The coolant from the heater returns to the water pump
DREDnot
Well-known member
- 738
- 467
- 63
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
Adjustment is done while the cable knob is pushed in. Slide cable sheath to the left till the arm hits the lower side of the stop. Tighten clamp. Now when you pull the heat knob out it will open the water valve till it hits the upper side of the stop. Notice the "OFF" and "ON" lettering on this original valve.
So are you saying mines on the wrong hose or on the wrong side of the elbow?
I installed it exactly where the other one was, but I’m replacing the newer electric controlled valve with the manual one.
- 4,544
- 4,488
- 113
- Location
- Brentwood, Calif
yes, its in the proper location, you just swap one valve for other…