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I recall a reading a post a while back that referenced the lights on the generator, one led above 14v and the other above 28v. With the engine running, both lights are flashing amber, alternating between the two. Please remind me what that signifies.

Finally had a moment to work on this girl. I swapped out the LBCD with a borrowed unit and that cured the incessant clicking. Now I have full and steady power to the cab, but the start button had no effect. I raised the cab and jumped the solenoid on the frame and it fired right up. Then I...

It has to something like that. I’ve ruled out practically everything else to no effect: -bypassed battery disconnect relay -swapped TCM with a known good unit -recharged the batteries individually -bypassed the LBCD -added extra ground My next idea is to cannibalize the battery disconnect and...

Jumped the ignition to battery bolts. No change, still cycles on and off. I’m pretty confident that both the 12 and 24 volt ignition relays are clicking. Everything powers up, dahs lights and low air alarm for 3 seconds. Them the 12v clicks followed immediately by the 24v relay, then all goes dark.

Here are some photos of the ignition relays under the PDP. You’ll notice a set of two wires coming from both with the handwriting label that says BAT RELAY.

The new battery disconnect is clicking. Either one or both of the ignition relays are also clicking. I can hear it clear as day. It also feels like they’re both clicking, but it also might be the vibration from one clicking that makes the other feel the same. The ignition relays in my truck have...

No. I apologize for being unclear. Underneath the power distribution panel are the two large relays, a 12 and 24v. Each have a set of thick gauge cables that (I think) link the battery and ignition together. They also have a set of two small wires that connect to the disconnect relays. When I...

During one of the “dead” moments when all switched were powered on and nothing was happening, I jumped the 24v relay underneath the control board and found that would “awaken” the truck, but only to continue its cycling on and off. I jumped both the 12 and 24 relay and no change.

I checked that LBCD box (I assume that is also referred to as a polarity box). Both 24v and 12v read fine. Still I removed each cable and cleaned them off and retightened and the result was the same. I also checked the battery and ignition bolts in the fuse panel and they came back fine. while...

The original relays finally quit so I replaced with the newer model, single box relax setup. We turn battery and master switch to on and dash powers up as usual. Push the start button and one of two things happen: 1. Everything goes dark, like a blown fuse. Cycle the battery disconnect switch...

That's it! Thanks very much.

Does anybody have a lead on these? Used to secure the bottom seat cover to the metal frame. Thanks.

I picked up a couple as well from fleabay. In hindsight I'd rather have bought it as a PDF.

Count me in.

The A1 shows 24v on the forward small terminal stud. Large output terminals are 12.5/24.69 The LED indicators on the A1 alt are flashing in an alternate pattern (front off-rear on, front on-rear off, etc.) with amber lights. Disregard the 1078, I figured that out

I took both my 1088A1 and 1078 to my local EmpireCAT for regular PM service. At the time of drop-off, voltmeter in both trucks showed in the green at 28v. Both trucks came back in the yellow at 24v. I went through the fuses and relays and could not find anything obvious. Sometimes the 1088A1...

Yes, but I have an idea. If I can use the new fenders to create a build file for a 3D printer, maybe I can come up with a cheaper alternative to OEM. Need to do some homework. I think the size is an issue, might figure out a way to print a fender in two or more sections at a time.

Close…..$1020 for both, 😂 I’m ordering them.

I’ll PM you.

I ordered the NOS harness from Eastern Surplus and surprise, it’s not the right one. Still looking for an OEM dash harness for the 915A1.