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  1. R

    Functional wheel valve after CTIS removal (?)

    Well the original scope of this thread was discussing deleting CTIS completely. And putting a schrader core in the wheel stem. In that case the banjo is unnecessary and is replaced by a standard 5/8 fine thread bolt inserted to fill the hole in the hollow stud. now if you are talking about...
  2. R

    Signal lights, hazard and brake lights don’t work

    Yep, It does matter as the base power for the flasher module for use by the turnsignals is provided by the hazard normally closed contacts when in the hazard off position. When you select hazard on, it provides power from a different source, but one that still must be authorized by the...
  3. R

    LMTV FMTV front axle outer seal replacement

    Yep, seal washer and bushing on either side of the ujoint(outer end of axle housing/inner end of spindle tube) IMO if you are going to pull the hub down to the point where you can access that inner spindle bushing and seal, you can pull the axle shaft, overhaul the ujoint and do at a minimum...
  4. R

    Possible bad alternator

    Exactly! I have never seen topically applied RTV seal anything, except the moisture inside the connection:)
  5. R

    Headlight switch or lights Electrical question

    well if you had high-beams selected/on when it was cycling, the dash high-beam indicator would cycle with the headlights going on and off, either caused by the light switch or by K-07 cycling... Did you jumper 30-87 on K-07? that will effectively bypass the light switch and test all the other...
  6. R

    Headlight switch or lights Electrical question

    Here, this should be a little easier to follow…
  7. R

    Headlight switch or lights Electrical question

    Pull relay K07 and install a jumper wire with 1/4” spade terminals between pin 30 and 87 in the relay socket. This will turn on your headlights and take the light switch out of the equation for testing. If the lights work ok this way, pull the jumper and move relay K20 to the K7socket and use...
  8. R

    What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

    point it down:)
  9. R

    LMTV Allison Stall Test issues

    Looks like you could hang a snowplow off of it:) Is that blue line running across the front of the engine the makeup line from the expansion tank?
  10. R

    Possible bad alternator

    In place of a rubber cover, the rtv keeps a dropped wrench from arc welding itself in place. Not needed on the ground stud though, only the + terminals on the solenoids and starter motor… later A1 trucks added the battery disconnect relay and the LBCD to control it/ disconnect the load/batts...
  11. R

    Possible bad alternator

    The battery ground lead cable runs to a stud on the front of the starter motor housing. From that stud there is a braided strap over to the drivers frame rail. That is how battery ground reaches the rest of the chassis… voltage drop tests can be run on all these circuits if you have a battery...
  12. R

    Possible bad alternator

    Have you cleaned the connections on the polarity box/LBCD back by the spare tire? How about ground strap between starter and drivers frame? the alt relies on a good connection between alt and batt, all 3 of them, 12, 24 and gnd…
  13. R

    LMTV died while driving

    Well they all communicate on the same data-bus…
  14. R

    No emergency braking!

    Emer braking should cause it to vent air from the anti compound valve vent, just like it does when you release park air/set park brakes. Was working on a video on this, but got sidetracked last week:)
  15. R

    Possible bad alternator

    measure the voltage at the alt. flashing green means it thinks its voltages are normal...
  16. R

    LMTV wont start

    While you are messing with it, pick your best 2 batteries and only hook up those 2 in series(keep one inner and one outer battery/remove the forward two or the rear two) Four 120AH batteries series parallel(240AH) is way too much for the 50/50 alternator to charge properly, and a horrible load...
  17. R

    LMTV wont start

    Just measuring with a meter is not a real test. You must test with load applied…
  18. R

    LMTV wont start

    What year/model truck? Rule #1 voltage is NOT good unless tested good UNDER LOAD! do you have a voltmeter? If not get one and measure the power at the batteries when you push the start button. It should drop no lower than about 10-11v if that is OK, measure voltage at the 12 and 24v...
  19. R

    Signal lights, hazard and brake lights don’t work

    Started this schematic a while back and finally finished it, condensed from the pages of schematics for the A0. Just the basic on-truck lighting, no blackout, rotating beacon, park or 24v commercial trailer circuits(its complex enough without all that:))
  20. R

    Signal lights, hazard and brake lights don’t work

    Well there are 2 brake-light switches in parallel, so I suspect the issue lies elsewhere. Sadly, the light circuit is the most complex/convoluted on the truck:) lets start with just the brake circuit. 1. Do any relays in the panel energize when you step on the brake pedal? If so, which ones...
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