Search results

Additional thought exercise here to ensure I don't have other issues at play. I am trying to get the rear evap assembly to kick on - and if I'm reading the diagram correctly if I bypass high pressure switch and ac compressor by connecting 436B directly into 7J - it should kick on, but it does...

Suspect lines for reference

I've been searching the TM's high and low, the best I could find is TM 9-2320-387-24P C05. My truck is a M1165A1 SN 258xxx. I have been unable to identify the source of air in my power steering system, and I'm beginning to realize that the connection to the cooling radiator might be my issue...

Update - the entire ac system is seized up. The motor was totally shot, and so are the condenser units. Sad time to be me.

I pulled all the armor and brackets that the military left off my truck. I do not recommend removing the armor behind the blower. You literally have to take the entire unit out, back out the wire harness, remove the AC line including the aluminum block, take out the fording snorkel and air...

I have not, what would that procedure look like? Also isn’t 24v at the blower motor and it not running a tell-tail sign that it’s a bad blower motor at a minimum?

There are there!

Everything seems kosher back here too I just confirmed that I have 24v at 400D so I'm assuming I have a bad blower motor..... but the rear evap unit isnt blowing either.

Now this is a place I have not yet looked. Will check and post an update tomorrow! thank you!!

All appears to be in order. There’s one ground wire terminated on the side half way down.

Thank you! Also where is @Retiredwarhorses when ya need him?! haha send help

M1165A1 SN 258xxx

I've been messing with my truck for the past few hours and I cannot figure out for the life of me why my heat/ac blower wont kick on. I have bypassed the thermostat, but not getting any voltage at it. There are 3 fuse boxes behind the batter box, only 2 have fuses - tried switching those...

Something of that nature I’m assuming, yep.

It is the rear, driver tire... HEAVILLY warn on the inside compared to even wear on all other tires. Have not yet had time to look into what caused it, but I'm open to ideas if people have had this issue before. The truck has 40k miles on it, while armored.

The 1165 got some new shoes!

It’s about a 2 inch difference cut it, weld it and mount it!

I think I might have an air gremlin. I wonder if I could some how put positive pressure at the reservoir to see if any of my return lines are leaking. I bet something crazy is up like a line that is letting air in but not showing any obvious signs of leaks.

Negative.

I did this as well fab clutch seems to be working perfectly.