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No they will not swap in.

For one they remove the gear reduction hubs. If you follow Steve 6x6x6. You can see his amazing custom axles he builds

without knowing how thick the wood is that you used, makes this a hard question to answer. I’ll be working late today, hopefully tomorrow I can look at the difference between the Volvo and stock handles as I have both. One way to solve this is to weld up an aluminum handle and have pipe where...

Well since I have the locker and have swapped at least 4 tires on the rear end if my truck trying to fix a vibration issue. I'm going to say that tool isn't needed. It would be a nice to have in a shop with a cement floor, but by the time I'd get it all set up, tire lifted on and so on. I'd...

It’s been discussed on here in the past that the hubs may not be a true 2:1 ratio. A year or so ago I did a test where I put a degree wheel on a hub and rotated the drive to see what the true total reduction was. Hubs and diff and just hubs. But I don’t remember all the results, it’s posted...

Now you really got me thinking and a re look at the parts. Ok power comes in and drives one of the big gears. This in turn drives the 4 smaller gears on the cross. Now the cross is fixed to the hub that and provides power. The second big gear is fixed to the spindles with splines and does...

Also look at the photo. Imagine the top gear the size where the spiders are sitting and see how the spiders would not enguage the lower.

Look at it like this. If the input gear, the top one is different in diameter than the output, then how would the spider gears mesh between the two. They are on a fixed diameter. Adding teeth to the input and not the output puts them physically out of alignment. The only way to change gear...

Here is a photo of the reduction gears in the hub. Reduction is due to the ratio of the spider gears to the input/output gears. To change the reduction you change the spider gear size. The top input and the bottom output gears have to be the same size or it all bindes up. Without a complete...

Those CTIS seals are not fun to install, even with the official seal tool.

i just roll the tire around and get it close. Then with a pry bar and a block of wood can rotate it the rest. Everyone will have to figure out their own system, as you will need to be able to do it in the field. I bet with the pipe levers to the studs method would also help line it all up.

Detroit locker. The fun is that you can’t lift one side and rotate the hub without also having the other side jacked off the ground. So when Changing tires you have to rotate the tire to match ctis fit, rather than simply rotate the hub a little. Adds a bit of frustration at times. But also...

Setting the hub gear lash can be a pain, thanks to Steve6x6x6 he showed us how to make a tool to simplify and remove guess work. Really all it does is hold the spider in place while you check lash

Getting the front axle shafts back in the center section, for me was the most head scratching part. I also put a locker in the rear that led to additional head aches

Also changing those seals means pulling the reduction gears. On re install you will have to check the gear lash, will need some tools for that. Search the forum and it will help on the process

Are you using ctis? Unplug it, clean, test. Willing to bet the ctis seal is toast. On the front the inner wheel bearing is greased, if oil is there it’s for sure the ctis seal.

may have to add lead to the front of the truck to soften the ride :naner::naner: That would make for an awesome combo though!!!

Look for a civilian company that provides fleet maintenance to the army. They should be able to order the parts and may even sell you parts.

.The 350’s were in some mraps, strykers, and emergency vehicles. They also had a reduced service life of the engine . If building an overland vehicle, you want reliability and durability. Adding water/meth, wvo, and other things to your system will decrease your mean time between failures...

The 3116 in an lmtv/fmtv is 225-290 hp not 170. At stock fueling there shouldn’t be any EGT issues. If you increase the rack travel for more fueling/hp minor increase should only need an EGT guage and reduce throttle when temps get high, or swap to bigger turbo to add air. Adding air will...