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I would suggest Asking around for a stock take off system off someone's parts truck. Maybe post up a WTB ad in the classified section. Unless you got a decent custom muffler shop locally that can fab up something for you

Here is the wiring diagram I've been using.

Yes definitely get a four wheel alignment. And check air pressures. The rocking at a stop is normal. Its because of the inboard mounting of the brake rotors. Everything outboard of the rotors...axle shafts twist like torsion springs, clearances and torsion in the geared hubs cause that rocking...

The red reset button is behind the battery box under the B pillar cross brace. There is a space there that is protected from kicking by a plate at the front of the passenger rear footwell. You can remove that plate and see what all is in that space. Depending on your vehicle configuration there...

Coolant issue...If the engine has been running a while and you have steaming coolant at the reservoir but the top radiator hose is not getting hot(temp gauge working? past middle?) then your thermostat may be stuck closed. I would replace it with OEM as part of a complete servicing anyhow. Then...

Really a waste of money and stainless fasteners are much weaker than steel and you need to put anti-sieze on all the threads or they gall when tightened and tend to snap when you need to loosen or remove them. Dont do it.

We noticed an issue with the 400A generator. When the engine is first started, the generator charges at the high side of the green arc. The measured output at the batteries is 28v. As the throttle is pressed slowly the gauge reads through and past the red arc. Voltage measured at the battery...

First thing I would look at it the fan thermal switch by the thermostat. Unplug it and check for continuity cold. if its open (no continuity) when cold its bad. It shouldnt be open till the engine is near 230 degrees. That is what tells the fan control box to lock up the fan clutch. If it tests...

The P/S system will be whining at the same time so make sure you keep that reservoir topped up as well so it doesnt suck air. Make sure there is ATF in the trans as well.

Its very likely there is residual fluid in all the systems. Once all fluids are present start the truck with the radiator cap off and it will start to draw coolant into the system. Keep adding coolant to keep the tank at the full line so it doesn't gulp any air. When the thermostat opens you...

Ok. That makes sense. How about this switch that I bypassed? What does it control and under what conditions? Im trying to figure out how the system functions but I've had no luck finding any documentation on this BAE(?) system. I see it has a thermocouple . Would this somehow cause...

I'm planning on doing this on my M1123. I'm just going with the 2man passenger side condenser unit. Do you have a good set of dimensions to drill the six mounting holes in the top of the fender? I just want to drill them right the first time

I've painted soft doors numerous times and haven't had problems. Hard doors look cool but at $4K for a set I like the soft doors better. I have both but I usually run soft in front and aluminum half doors in back. The X door glass is almost always shite. Yellow and delaminating . New was...

I finally got shimmied up under mine to get pics. That long line in your pic is correct but you need a separate hard line as well. Its 12 or so inches long and goes from that tee across to a bracket that the rubber end fitting of the pictured hose clips to... The long rubber hose then goes...

Thats my 1998(2009 rebuid) M1123

Despite what the parts manual lists, Mine was all 1/4-20 with washers and lock nuts. The large side holes on mine are capped with red plugs and not used to attach the grille. I think they get used to attach hood reinforcing panels they retrofitted on some units. The large holes for the front...

First off...running the engine for any length of time with empty coolant and empty P/S fluid is BAD. #1 wait till there is coolant in the engine first. #2 Fan needs P/S system full to disengage. It operates in failsafe mode and turns on when something in the system fails or it shot up. #3...

To answer your question, If your gauge is reading accurately 220 is normal. If you can run around all day and that needle stays right there you are fine. The fan switch ideally comes on at 230. and cools down from there. Normal cars do place "normal" in the center of the gauge...these arent...

Im gonna ask cause you are kinda vague and dont want to assume... Are you on the ohms scale on your multi meter? Did you touch one probe to the electrical terminal of the glow plug and one probe to the hex body of the glow plug? Making sure to scratch through to bare metal? Thats where you need...

If you cant find 50/50 premixed, Make sure to use distilled water to dilute to 50/50.