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If you are not using the air filter element that is correct for the Turbo Trucks, you have an overly restrictive air filter in place. Try removing the filter and running without to see any change for a quick test of things.
Shim is .008 thick. make sure that the nose casting doesn't say something like "no shim". If so don't use a shim. Is the stud at the forward end of the starter properly held in place to the bracket with a nut?
Move the latches to the outside of the hatch and get the proper strikers. Then latch the rear of the hatch and then slowly bring down the front end and adjust the front strikers and all will be good.
This photo shows the AM General Battery bracket that they used on the Hummers as it is mounted on my Humvee. I had to add in some nut plates from within the Air Lift Bracket for attaching the Battery Bracket, but existing holes in it matched with holes in the Battery Bracket so I think...
Bed rail height may be a tiny bit too high. Might need something like a couple of 2"x4"s laid cross wise in the bed to give good clearance. The CUCV Trucks had a tie down system for carrying the shelters. One crossed the front of the bed with a hoop at each side with long bolts and sleeves going...
For your A2, I think you will find that you can easily install the X Door hinges to the B Pillar, but may have to install Rivnuts on the A Pillar area, because those holes might be messed up from the MAK Armor attachment. The Strikers on the B Pillar will be easy. Just use the upper two bolts...
You can loosen the small bolts at the rear side of the hydraulic clutch a few turns then rap the assy with a plastic hammer to shock it a bit and then you should be able to hold the pulley and rotate the clutch as needed.
I see, I had not seen any 6.5's in Humvees that did not have the GEP Sticker on them. I'm guessing that this General Motors 6.5 supply was just NA engines? Is thta correct?
The #8 cylinder cracking was a General Motors built engine issue. The 6.5 engines used in the Humvee were built by GEP. Do you know of a constantly re occurring cracking problem on the Humvees?
As mentioned before, those are the doors for an M1151 type for use when the heavy armored doors are not needed. How about practicing on a piece of plywood before actually cutting up a door, because if you can't make that work, you wouldn't have ruined a door.
The alphas had a special low profile oil pan and pick up for the engne as well as a specialally positioned inlet for the water pump amng other differences.
That dual light switch is for the A2 Humvees and later models that have the four speed trans. The extra switch is mounted reversed so it is on until the brake pedal is depressed. This is to unlock the torque converter. This switch would need to be modified to work as a dual brake light switch.
That's right George. Most likely a surplus "Dog Bone" would be wrapped in the type of plastic bag the Military likes and would have a label like in the photo. Maybe if a large pallet of these were purchased for a large rebuild contract, they could all have been placed into a large pallet sized...
I've seen a couple of basic x doors with a crack just rearward of the upper hinge. I think it is from being swung forward without the limit strap being in place.
I had thought that it would never happen to me, but after installing X doors onto a Humvee and using brand new limit straps. I had...
That shield is not used with the DWF Intake. It is not water tight, it is just a sort of splash shield that is withing that box below the mushroom cap. You need to have a rubber elbow that connects the air cleaner to the bottom of the snorkle.