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what lights are those?

Thanks. I'll check

So whatever became of the OP issues?

updates: Replaced the in tank fuel pump with one of the 'take outs' from the auction site. works great (so far, about 200 miles) Got all the wheels painted, and went tailgating a bit for NC State Been doing some odds and ends...doesn't really NEED much, but lots of things I want to do Have...

Ever get it running? Have any pics and details of the new truck?

Mines not the J pipe. It smokes pretty bad up from the middle of the engine at start up, and the smoke smells different (more of a burning smell than exhaust) but kind of clears up once warm, but still puffs smoke when you get up in the RPMs. Don't think its the slobber tube, as the smoke...

So I noticed in your vid that you get smoke coming out from under the truck/from under the hood when starting...and it continued to smoke. I have the same issue, but can't really pinpoint it. (Deep under everything, near the passenger center of the engine) Do you have an idea why your's...

So, you just loosen those 2 bolts and then turn the pulley to loosen it enough to remove the belt? which way do you turn to loosen? I was looking at the wrench sets on Electronics Bay, are both necessary?

well there really isn't that much difference in the A2s, and as long as it has a clean title it really doesn't matter. The engine should be labeled, so you're good there. A few small things are different with the real early A2s, but that is mostly cosmetic.

went tailgating

I also inquired with AAA, and they said unless it was tried and true RV (with me adding on the RV coverage), they wouldn't tow it. I then said, what if it IS an RV (I have a 109 and could convince some people), and even then the person on the phone said that it was up to the tow truck driver...

Replaced the original fuel pump with a Parker in-tank retrofit. Seems to work ok now. Had to move the entire (full) fuel tank for access (at least on my M109, not sure about the cargo bed M35s) For these trucks to have been used in combat service overseas, they sure weren't designed very...

So, I took my radiator out and had it checked. Was told it could be re-cored for $900, so I didn't do that. I put it back in and will run it, while topping off the coolant here and there. Doesn't leak that bad, yet. Then took it for its first drive, about 40 miles. It ran fine. Moved...

Thanks^

My guess is that it would not be any worse than all the other trucks that are built with external fuel pumps. Running any fuel pump dry is a kiss of death.

Drove it about 40 miles (inaugural run since I've owned it) Did pretty well. Held speed, no odd issues. I did notice that at the end of the run, the electric fuel pump was howling a bit and just sounded 'off' Looked on Ebay for replacements, doesn't appear to be much out there. Hopefully...

This is the 12" door star? Looks incredible

Some (maybe myself) don't want to spend $900 for a radiator on a $3k truck if possible. Some ingenuity and a half day of work can possibly save 4-500 dollars. Yes, you are correct, getting a NOS or original style can easily be done.

That's why I was asking. Of all the M35A2s out there, one would think that not everyone is spending 1000 dollars for a new radiator Found this, and it went nowhere fast (as most threads do) http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?12594-Alternate-M35a2-radiator and then this...

I was not so lucky. talked to White Owl Parts (somewhat local to me) and they have 'good' takeouts along with new ones. May go the used route.