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i added the tank, Pollack valve, and wiring then auggered out the filler neck from unleaded to diesel sized from my old 3/4 ton 81 chevy but stupid me forgot to cut out the door before the wrecker arrived so I just cut out a square hole to be filled in the future when a door falls into my lap...

I think I saw the rim up you are asking about over on alpha heaven on one of the trucks they stuck tires on

installed second saddle tank and Pollack valve next up wiring and plumbing and chasing filler door and tube etc.

if your really lucky the procedure for starting the truck in warm and cold is on the drivers side visor along with shifting into and out of 4 wheel drive flip yours down and check

you can get those fasteners straight from the factory, think I paid 60 bucks for 100 of the two hole double height model in govt black. scoville fasteners I think was the company name. I have quite a few left over if anyone needs them.

I see a lot of racors used on boats with that set up. generally folks buy a spare bowl assembly since they are notorious for cracking when you try and remove them to change filter and I know those valves and all come with a new bowl. I ordered a spare for mine when i got my racor.

I took a set of door top gutters off a 90 burb and installed on my m1008. no leaks now. total cost about 3 bucks, won't leak now even if I lost my door seals somehow.

well as closure to this thread i started, i have removed the gauges from the gen light holes, bought a new instrument cluster with new gen placards, rebuilt three diffrent alternators swapping them in and out, replaced both under dash relays, traced/replaced and cleaned all connections and...

mine were both front and rear 1/4 20 thread nutserts

i have owned a few of these 80s chevy trucks and never knew about that seal. i have two trucks in the yard and neither ever looked like that strip was installed. you sure thats not just a blazer thing?

Thank you, i appreciate all you have done. the service you have provided has been extremely valuable. if there is any chance i could help you out with anything please let me know.

winter front thread refresh

that came from a member here its a winter grill cover designed for the truck. check out jatonka35.com

i have installed quite a few of those plugs into bassboats for on board battery chargers i recommend finding a better plug cover, those rubber straps always seem to rip off and there goes the cover.

i have replaced the vent window rubber on a previous chevy truck its possible but extremely not fun especially at any temp less than 75 degrees. my m1008 will get new gm units i found a few years ago

I routed my harness behind the grill and through the radiator support in front of front battery mounted relays just to the side and behind front battery on the firewall. attached the positives to the positive terminal bolt on front battery with the addition of another battery nut. i added a new...

nice information have to keep an eye on this for the future

so the hose clamp sets the height, i was afraid of that. i tried using that also and i found they have a tendency to loosen and drop the top causing sag which flaps like crazy and rips out your cover fastners. this was just my experience it may work better for you but something to keep an eye...

Any chance you can post a picture of how the bows and the stake pockets interact and what if any adjustment can be made with your set up? i have created a set up for my truck that is similar using an old trampoline frame, just curious how you have done yours.