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I also just replaced my fuel filter with a spin on and am having the same no air in return line: start.. die... hard to start... now lots of air in the return line (I swapped in a clear line)... I guess its time to check the glass ball check valve?
Tom
The nut takes care of seating the bearings... that is why you torque it down a few times then back it off until the pin on the inner spindle nut lines up with the hole...
Tom
normal... sure.... good... probably not... those blue wires are called fusible links... you can wrap electrical tape around them... but remember they are designed to burn out like a fuse... so I'd just use a wrap or two to keep them from shorting out...
most purists would suggest you...
I always thought it was the opposite... my 1987 civie r20 suburban has a "J" code diesel in it, and its more or less the same but it has a difference CDR valve set up, a cruise control mounted on the IP, and an AC compressor instead of a drivers alternator... so I figured the cucv's would have...
I put the new radiator in the civie 87 r20 suburban with 6.2 after getting the new rubber mounts from LMC...
just put the new radiator in the m1009 as well. more or less the same but the oil cooler lines are different between the too... the cucv's are flared where the civie's are straight...
if its your running lights... there is a 5a fuse for that on my m1009... so the running lights don't work but the flashers and breaks will illuminate... if it's just the brakes that don't work but your flashers do, I'd double check the break switch and both the flasher/hazard relays (try...
Great thread... I'm replacing the radiator on my Civie '87 R20 suburban with a 6.2... no trouble with the coolant lines, but its not sitting right and i can't get the drain valve to open or close due to the interfearance with the fan shroud. Thinking its because the rubber that the rad sits...
lots of info on the Glow plug system and how to do the push button mod (very little electric work required.... I even took pics!n Use the info in the TM's and read the thread below and you'll be set
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/63366-glow-plug-pass-help.html
I've added a manual glow plug switch to my stock GP controller... my suburban has been on a manual only switch for quite a while. With AC60G plugs I don't see how it could be all that bad... lots of marine diesels are set up with just a button... you just have to be smart about it and be...
Wow... great thread going here.
I've got similar trouble with my CUCV... hard starts if it sits for days. My truck always fires up fast unless its been sitting a good while. And it roars to life if its hot.
While underneath it working on other stuff. I've noticed fuel dripping out of the...
I'm at a loss why you are zeroing in on the temp switch... I'd need more info to help you. Is the system stock (ie 24v with the step down resister on the fire wall) or has it been 12v bypassed? Have you done any trouble shooting (ie used the TM and followed the troubleshooting procedures...
Stu in NH... I read all the posts here before I posted... including what you just posted when you quoted my post....
I'm saying the fuel is dripping out of the water drain line, and I believe that the cause is probably the o ring (5 in the diagram below). I've also read it is a common problem...
I've got fuel dripping from my water drain line. I've also put in an electric fuel pump and removed the mech pump. If I let the truck sit a couple of days it will fire up, then stall out about two or three times then run like a top.
Any sugestions on where to find a new oring for the water...
You need to buy the one for the 83... I think my kit said it was for 83 to 67...
anyways, the problem is that the CUCV's don't have the other sides turn/brake where you can plug it in. So if you did use the right t conector you'd still have to splice into the other side's turn/brake and run...