Search results

If any of his glow plugs are working you may just help him to find it by blowing up the gas in the cylinder. If you must use some sort of starting fluid ... WD40 is a much better choice. i had someone urge me to do this one time being very sincerly helpful... I refused, and trouble shot the...

hooyah driver... thanks for your posts. I just put in a 't' connector and only have the brake/turn of for the side i connect it too... so i too will tap the opposite turn/brake and run it to my seven pin... I also pulled an 12ga from the 12v bus block to the aux, and wired in an electric...

is the vehicle still stock (24 V) or has anything been bypassed (like the GP resister on the fire wall...) has a roscommon 12V mod been done? These details help us to tell you exactly what is wrong... for instance you got good advice a few posts above by Sandcobra164 on checking the glow...

.... and if he added something 'non standard' it may cause gelling and clogging in the fuel system...

my take on how to change my m101 to civi Thanks to the info here, just converted my m101A2 to a civie 7 pin. I had no use for the mil connection as all my trucks are set up with brake controlers and 7 pins except my M1009 (which has been converted to 12v, and will soon sport a brake...

have you run, or are you running any fuel other than highway diesel? How old is it?

Need more info... 12v conversion truck? Has dog head realay mod been completed? What does skipping mean?

Great work! Keep us posted!

I think I got mine as a buy it now.... It was after thanks giving...

I got 4 'HMMVW' CDR valves from ebay for $44... shipped. THey have the same part number on them as the one that came on my 1009 from GL...

I'd replace the bolts as well if you haven't been using a bracket.... they'd be under extra stress... $15 piece of mind at the dealer... ETA: OP: Nice pics

.040 not getting it done. i guess its a bad starter... sometimes click... no start... other times it cranks... I contacted RareElectric (the seller on EBAY) over 5 days ago, but haven't heard back...:( EDIT TO ADD... they respond better to phone calls... I have to pay shipping back to get...

As for rubber hoses, just buy them by the SAE spec and cut to length: --30r9 are the best hoses --30r6 are cheaper and will work (unless you run bio), and are what your neighborhood auto store will probably stock as "fuel injector' hose. I'd stay away from anything else as it probably is not...

Both my 6.2's are connected directly due to that thing dry rotting and cracking.... I searched High and Low for them and can't find one out side of super pricey suppliers to the .gov who won't return my calls or emails...

ok... parked my civie J code nose down hill... no change to the start.... no start first hit of starter... fires up second I've been under the weather, but good enough now to work a little. i swapped in a piece of 1/4" clear pvc on the return line and sprayed the check valve out with...

why don't you give the cdr a good cleaning, pull the bell housing, whipe up the mess, and put it back together and see if you found the problem (clogged cdr)... i'd then order a new cdr (sear cdr, cdr hummwv, etc at ebay.... one was listed for sale in one of the threads i linked....) time...

poor grounds + dirty connections + weak battery= low/no voltage first round solution: clean & check all contacts & resnug + recharge battery while you are in there look for damaged/burn out fusible links... Hope it helps, Tom

have you cleaned or replaced you cdr valve? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/48062-cdr-dummies.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/46068-cdr-valves-whos-got-em.html

Bio tends to float gunk off things and clean them... that said, if all you run is bio without any biocides in it, then stuff can grow in the bio fuel... But running some bio here and there, or just mixing it up to 20% with petro diesel should only 'clean' a system of crud and deposits...

Weird... that's twice it did a no nothing double tap... hmmm