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If you swap to the 6.5 CDR you'll still have to do a little custom work as normally the 6.5 CDR hose is tapped into the intake before the turbocharger (rather than the intake manifold like the 6.2). I believe this would only involve routing the hose (1" if i recall) from the 6.5 CDR (after the...
Any thoughts on where to get a new slip joint boot? Mines getting to be in rough shape so probably worth a replacement, but they don’t seem to be easy to find.
There are lots of posts about this, here is a recent one which should help.
https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/adding-an-aftermarket-coolant-gauge-to-an-m1008.216664/
Looks like it is out of stock so doesn't help you that much but I purchased this radiator. But a 2-core version is available. Other than "shimming" the bottom with an aluminum C channel as the overall height of the radiator was ~3/4" shorter it was a direct fit, oil and trans fluid cooler lines...
I don't doubt that the motor is tired and worth a rebuild anyways prior to the turbo project but as WillWagner mentioned it may be worth checking oil pressure with a mechanical gauge to verify. My Autometer oil pressure gauge is surprisingly inaccurate. I've swapped the sender already and plan...
Even at least one of the brand new Bosch injectors I put on my 6.5 Optimizer stuck at first. It took briefly working them (as in gear with giving it throttle) to get it to run right.
Definitely sounds like you have a grounding issue. There should be 3 ground wires that attach to the block at that rear passenger side intake manifold bolt. One big one to the negative bar. Another to the cab I believe. And the 3rd i can’t recall exactly but it ties into the engine wiring harness.
You actually don't need to pull the intake off, just the air filter. Granted it would help but I just swapped it out last weekend without taking anything else apart. That pic was just from the website to help show the location.
I went with an autometer one, many models will work but i went with...
I just sold a working TH400 for $300. Typically there are a lot of them on marketplace for cheap, and it is not a hard swap. Probably your best bet unless you want the truck to sit a while, 4l80 and nv4500 are doable but definitely a lot more time and money.
In my opinion it is easiest to put a gauge at the top-rear of passenger side head as that location is currently unused. I'd recommend using this block plate vs one that requires a 3/8 to 1/8 NPT adapter. I recently switched to this plate and it made a world of a difference in the accuracy of...
Yeah at the moment it is but everything typically comes apart easy enough at this point 😂 so I would be adding grease to the back of the speedo where the cable attached? Or to the cable itself?
I’ve read on here about people greasing the cable but haven’t see much on how to lube the speedo itself.
You’ll be able to turn the pump with the lines attached. Should be 15mm nuts, just loosen them a little and you’ll be able to turn the IP. You’re only turning typically a few line widths and it’s extremely thin so it’s not much. You may have to remove the air filter but that would be it.
Not to give too obvious of a reply but sounds like you've done some work to the vehicle, did you happen to check if the pink wire on the IP was inadvertently disconnected? And to tag onto the other recent replies, did you have the injectors out/disconnected before? It takes surprisingly long...
Today while coming back from a long trip with the M1008 I noticed that the speedometer seemed to be running faster than normal. Usually it was 3-4 mph fast at 65 mph, however with a quick check of the gps it was showing 12mph faster. By the time I got home an hour later it was showing 20 mph...