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Well its been a long road with a few detours but I'm finally back up and running again. After getting the motor fully hooked up it ran for about 5 minutes before what I believe blowing a head gasket. I still need to pull that motor apart for full diagnosis and I'm not sure why it let go as...

Can’t say if it’s actually required or not but I usually put rtv on the threads of the flange bolts since it is an open hole to the inside of the hub where the oil is.

One additional thing I’ve come across that’s different is the oil pan. They visual seem very similar but the oil dipstick location is higher on the 6.5 than on the 6.2. Only realized it because the dipstick tube wasn’t lining up with the bolt on the exhaust manifold for securing it. I’m...

Turns out both the transmission bell housing bolts and the motor mount bracket to block bolts were indeed standard thread on my 6.2 and now metric on the 6.5 Optimizer. The new correct thread size is M10-1.5 for both bolts. The motor mount bolts previously were 1-1/8” long so I ordered 30mm...

According to the -34P TMs that’s part #2695149. A quick internet search will lead you to eBay and looks like there are a few NOS options available. Also while you have that off take a look at that front seal and the yoke. My yoke was grooved/corroded pretty bad where the seal rides and it was...

Yeah they're on my motor now. Which only ran for 5 minutes before having issues (unrelated to the valve covers) but for those 5 minutes this product worked well :LOL: So honestly I can't give a good review one way or another. As others have mentioned if you use RTV and follow the steps...

https://quadstartuning.com/products/6-5l-valve-cover-plate-stud-kit Costs more than the valve covers but helps with even pressure when tightening

Thanks for the heads up! I have a fluid damper I’ll be swapping over so I’ll be able to leave out the spacer and it should be good there. I ordered the side mount turbo version so I believe the 6.5 intake I have should bolt up. I also got a “dummy” crank position sensor to plug that hole on...

Maybe it is just the bellhousing bolts then. I recall that was a 3/8 bolt on my 6.2 as I changed some of them when I had the transmission out last year. But I’ll double check to confirm. That’s good to know the motor mounts are already metric so that’ll save some searching.

Well after the issues I encountered with my 6.2 block and failed rebuild I decided to purchase a new 6.5 Optimizer. I'd like to have everything I need on hand when it arrives so ideally it is a fairly quick swap and I don't have to wait for parts. I've heard that the few remaining bolts on the...

When I changed the mounts on my M1008 it actually took the same mounts as a SBC and not the 6.2 mounts. Doesn’t make much sense but that’s what matched the previous mounts. On the supposed 6.2 mounts, the holes didn’t line up with the frame bracket.

Have you looked at the sock filter on the sending unit in the tank? Those can get pretty dirty

I believe the m1008 has an open front diff while the other has a limited slip.

Well I finally got the truck put back together enough after putting on the new heads and turbo to hook the batteries and start it up to see how everything works. After bleeding the air out of the fuel system it started and ran great for about 5 minutes. Then all of a sudden it started running a...

Sure seems like something isn’t working right, your rpm’s should be lower than that with OD. The overdrive unit is kicking in right? Granted I have a .70 OD ratio with the 700r4 vs the gear vendors unit at .78 but I run 60 mph at 2000 rpm

I used those on my camper for attaching a solar powered charger. Honestly they're pretty chintzy so I wouldn't recommend them for a cucv. Something like this would be more robust which I have on another vehicle I own if you really want quick disconnect ability.

How much do you want to spend? :LOL:

For the solenoid I purchased Napa Part #: ECH ST85 and it works good.

I installed a fluid damper. Works good but can’t say whether it’s worth the extra coin for it. But if you can’t get the 1 remaining normal (and normally priced) balancer left on rock auto then I’d say go that route.

I went with a "Level 2" 700r4 built by Bowtie Overdrives. It has only been a year but no issues so far, and it is rated for 450 hp/tq which unless you're doing serious motor upgrades is plenty strong for the 6.2. I can cruise on the highway with ease. Check out my build thread starting on post...