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I'm not in the least concerned with paint, unless it somehow makes the SEE work better. And I ditched the dismal incandescent work lights for cheap LED versions. One of my smarter modifications.

To me, the diagnostic system as a whole is a lot of useless wiring and hardware. Of course, I'm one of those who when getting a new-to-me or new vehicle start removing things I don't need or like. Unlike most, who add things instead. And when I do add something, like the "extension hoses"...

I haven't got around to it yet, but it sure seems like there's some 3,000 feet of unnecessary wiring and other stuff that could be eliminated...which would make the FLU more reliable.

As I recall, it serves some sort of purpose in the diagnostic system, and also as another source of leaks. Get rid of it. Oh, and welcome!

Question for those who have either tilted the cab, or pulled the plate between the seats. Curious where the cable from the master switch ends up. As in where it's grounded to whatever it leads to. My reason for wanting to know is that I'd like to hook up the negative for a winch I installed at...

Hmm. I never removed any pulleys, just changed the belts. And that power steering tensioner isn't all that fun to adjust from below, but it can be done. Heck, even I managed.

Welcome. And if there is such an attachment for the Case 580, which there likely is, it should work on a SEE. Once you run the necessary lines to feed it. If you're lucky and it'll run on the front hydraulics it'd be as easy as using the tool reel. Probably would need extension hoses, though.

My thinking was that it's a hydraulic system, not an engine, so hydraulic fluid is probably better. Not having the same logistical constraints as the military, I have no reason to try running the same oil/fluid in as many applications as possible. Been using AW-32, and probably decided on that...

Yeah, I bought a used 12-incher off an unknown model, and while it fits, it won't fold in as tightly as the original bucket.

There are readily available and very good valve stems for tractors and implements, too. Usually made from brass.

I have a couple of things working in my favor. For one, it rarely gets to 80 degrees here, and when it does I don't want to be outside in the first place. Secondly, it's not often I use the backhoe for more than an hour at a time these days. But probably most importantly, I run the engine at...

Earlier today I thought about eliminating the cooling system altogether. The MB-4/94 tunnel washer I have only have a large tank (30-something gallons) and runs a hydraulic motor, plus the other hydraulics which are similar to a backhoe. My fans really only ran when using the snow blower, and...

At first I thought you must have added a zero to those numbers, but then remembered that I have one with about 5,000 miles showing. Either way, as mentioned above, don't pay too much attention to the numbers.

All you really could need is new rubber grommets. Either way, there really is nothing special about the valve stems, so try NAPA or any other parts store.

Cheap AW-32 from NAPA. I figure that hydraulic systems prefer hydraulic fluid, and it seems to work very well.

They should still have a date code. Or are you afraid to look?

Since you have a set, how new are those tires according to the date code? I called a seller of "new" Michelins and found out that they were eight to 11 years old. In his mind, new and never used were completely interchangeable words. Sure glad I called and asked instead of falling for the very...

I don't think that overheating the brake fluid with a SEE would ever be an issue. DOT 0.3 would probably do the job just fine.

You do not want that damn thing working, Brent. It's LOUD. Okay, for oil pressure maybe, but not for the air.

I don't remember now, but did the starter work if you "screwdriver started" it?