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Have the brake lines been replaced? A brake line can look great from the outside, but swell on the inside, trapping brake fluid, and leaving the brake(s) engaged.

I don't suppose you have part numbers, pictures, etc? This would solve a problem for me, and allow me to put the trailer back to stock if needed...

Up the tailpipe? :-P

There are lots of posts here about removing swollen plugs. People like the 60G because they are self-regulating, I went with Bosch for mine.

Better to change the connector. Some have just trimmed down the terminal on the glow plug. The Wellmans have the correct size terminal, but have been known to swell.

If the diode failed with a 'short' condition instead of an 'open' one, it is bypassing the horn relay altogether.

In a stock system, the GP relay needs to be an isolated ground unit as well...

You need to measure the clearance / engagement of the starter gear to the flex plate gear, then shim as needed. Don't count on the 'no shim' stuff...

Where did you mount the rest of the FT-8800? I have them in two of our vehicles, and want to mount one in the M1009. Also, what did you do for the antenna feedlines? I'm thinking about a short jumper cable from the antenna through the top, with enough slack in the feedline so that I can remove...

'82? I thought CUCVs were only from '84 to '86?

Is the fuel shutoff solenoid on the IP getting voltage? The pink wire? Can you hear the solenoid click when the key is in the run position and the pink wire is connected / disconnected? If there is a problem there, then no start. You could loosen a fitting at one of the injectors to see if they...

Perhaps a problem with the alignment of the ignition lock cylinder to ignition switch rods?

Well you are at it, add an ammeter to measure the current draw, then you could see the change when in draw when one of the plugs fails... :naner: If you really want to get fancy, measure the current draw on each GP, and have that monitored by a micro controller and produce fancy graphs of the...

Fast clicking can mean that the batteries have gotten too weak. Put them on a charger.

If it "cranks" , then it is "turning over" ...

The original voltmeters are 12v gauges, with a resistor on the back to form a voltage divider circuit to drop the voltage to 12v for the gauge, similar to the way the resistor bank on the firewall works with the glow plugs to provide 12v to the glow plugs.

There is a little down arrow on the right side of the bar that says "close this bar" or some such, and the bar goes away when I click it. I'm running this on Win 7 with Firefox.

Welcome to the site from the Far North of Idaho! Maybe I'll see you around!

I have not compared the two while actually installed, but could it be that the bracket is for the gear reduction starter, and not the one for the direct-drive?

Sounds like it is not the service light switch then. As mentioned before, check the headlight fuse area of the fuse box. Even though the fuse looks / tests good, the connection inside the fuse box may have corroded, or even melted, so that it no longer makes contact.