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Um, I think the OP said the lighter gauge wire goes to the starter? Directly? If so, that is not correct... That wire should go to the 12v buss over by the brake master cylinder on the firewall...

I had that happen at random times with mine. The plug from the LMC harness that plugs into the stock headlight socket to control the relays was a real loose fit. Tightened up the connectors in the housing to make better contact, and no further problems. Other than that, do you have the two hot...

Yoke... unless you like your eggs runny...

Search here on SS for threads on this. Many just get some longer bolts for the trans-to-block, and then just slide the trans back far enough to get to the flexplate... And it is a stock part, nothing special... GM part number is in the parts TM, and can be crossed at just about any decent auto...

I believe that is for use in a gas engine, to supply full voltage to the ignition coil when cranking. Otherwise, the coil voltage goes through a dropping or ballast resistor during normal operation.

Yes!

If the truck is still in the stock 24v/12v configuration, just make sure you only connect your ground to the driver's side alt, GEN1.

The TMs are in the TM download section and are free.... Very easy to short out a few 24v places under the dash and burn up fusible links on these trucks. Be sure to check the Useful Thread stickies in the CUCV forum, many common topics are well covered there.

Welcome to the site, please be sure to go introduce yourself in the New Members thread. If the fuse is good, I'd suspect the switch, a known issue on these trucks, or the blower resistor assembly. There should be trouble-shooting info in the -20 or -34 TMs available here on SS.

The military didn't want to stock two different alternators for the CUCV, so both are isolated ground alts. The drivers side alt, GEN1, has a connection from its ground stud to the top of the engine to provide the 12v for the front battery when referenced to the chassis ground. The passenger...

The stock CUCV has a pair of large resistors mounted on the firewall behind the air cleaner to, in combination with the glow plugs, drop the voltage seen by the glow plugs to 12v.

Ok, but what is the purpose of that plug? Can't the stock one just be replaced with the white/red cable shown in the picture? It looks like the green/black one goes between the alt and the factory plug ( white/red in the picture )

Is this truck even running? If the wiring is still stock, but only one battery, I don't see how it could be started. Once started though, I could see it running...

When checking the vac lines at the vac regulator valve on the side of the injection pump, remember 'Top = Transmission'. Hooking them up the other way can cause problems. Also, there is a little rubber adapter between the vac lines and the vac regulator valve on the side of the IP that tends to...

Have the batteries been fully charged and load tested? All the lights going out in the crank position is one of the classic signs of a bad / low battery.

What is the one with the green / black wires? Is that a diode in the black wire?

I'm curious about the GEN 2 light as well. However, it should be noted that the voltmeter is as old as the truck is, and was never a precision instrument. There is a dropping resistor on the back of it to make the 12v meter read a 24v system. Either the gauge, or the resistor, or both, could be...

It is a discontinued part. I bought one a few years ago from one of the online chevy/gm parts houses.

Is the part # different for an '84? These trucks are all built from '84 parts... if the factory made a change between '84 and the other years in the civy line, the part may not fit the CUCV then.

Perhaps buy one from SS member antennaclimber? He makes new ones, which I doubt would fall under any sort of restrictions.