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I think the fronts are just wider than the rears, but yea, it's important on an M880 to have all 4 tires the same since it's full time 4wd. The 3 Lever switch should be on the right side of the IP, to the right of where the radio would be. It might just be shoved behind the dash and the new...

Yea, looks like the VR is the next teardown and inspect project. If you don't know electronics very well, you might want to find an electronics repair shop to take the VR to, print off and take pages 3-264 through 3-284 with the VR and ask them if they can perform the tests as outlined on those...

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I was out of town until today. On to your problem at hand. Since you've isolated that the meter is working properly, I'm going to assume that there is something keeping the set from producing power properly. My guess is the voltage regulator/static...

BTW, here's the other one that was sold with 108 miles... $12,011.00 2310 - Passenger Motor Vehicles at Government Liquidation Later, Joe

There are still some dash pads in the GM inventory, but they are getting scarce. At 55, the engine is turning 2675 RPM on stock 235/85R16s. That makes the engine drink fuel and the engine is starting to get wound out. I swapped 4.11 gears into my 1008 and it's a little happier at 55 at 2400...

Pumping the throttle will not do anything, it only regulates the amount of fuel delivered while the pump operates. It would be like pumping the fuel on a fuel injected vehicle, all it does is open and closes the butterfly valve on the throttle body, not like squirting more fuel in on a carb'd...

According to the -34P the GM number is 359917 You should be able to get them from GM or any parts house as Burbn said, it's a very common part. Later, Joe

Well, I'm glad that you've gotten the fault box put back right at least. You say the frequency is non-responsive. Is your set a MEP-103A on the dataplate or is it a MEP-004A (OR AAS if it has the acoustic kit on it) If it's a MEP-004A, the frequency is adjusted with the manual throttle under...

TM 9-2320-289-20 Section 3-21.1 Page 3-64 (Page 197 in the PDF) covers the VRV replacement and adjustment. TM 9-2320-289-34 Section 5-3 Page 5-6 (Page 366 in the PDF) covers the modulator valve replacement. Later, Joe

You might be able to get a standard GM front vent/trim piece to fit with the aftermarket kit. Hit up a junkyard or LMC truck to buy one. Later, Joe

16" 8 lug steels from an 80's Ford or Dodge will fit without any problems. 235/85R16 or 245/75R16 are the closest you can get to the old 9.5R16.5 There are also still manufacturers who make the 9.5R16.5: Firestone Transforce HT Cooper SRMII Sigma Stampede AS Dayton Timberline AT Alfa Heaven...

The two 30KWs are MEP-005s, the 60 is a MEP-006. The MEP numbers are on the dataplates that are mounted on the front of the genset, usually on the left side as you look at the radiator. Has the serial number and the MEP designation. Who makes the engine in the unit that you're working on and...

I believe that there's a John Deere 24V starter solenoid that matches. I'll do a little searching and edit my post if I find it. ETA: Found this list of part numbers, see if JD can cross them. Later, Joe

Yea, I'd give it one good final inspection and bolt it back in. Doublecheck all the connections to make sure the canon plugs are tight. Push them in, tighten the ring, then push it in again and try to tighten the ring again until they are seated good and tight. Later, Joe

You should have 24V at P12-A regardless of what the ground is doing because you're grounding the multimeter separate of the plug. But, the ground for the fault box runs from P12-B through wire P66A to P6-B then to the DC Relay Assembly terminal 3 which is in the control box. Inside the relay...

That looks pretty clean... [thumbzup] Later, Joe

Yea, definitely get them involved now... something is jacked and it's their responsibility to make it right. I would bet there's a pinched wire above the steering column, probably between the ignition switch and pedal brace. Later, Joe

Start with the simple checks: 1) Check the 24V fuse in the fuse box 2) Check the red wire at the starter relay for 24V Later, Joe

Did you remove the jumper wire while you were test driving the truck? Remove the jumper wire if you haven't and see if the problem goes away. It is very difficult to accurately diagnose problems if there are bypasses in place because power can feed in weird ways through the system due to...

Sure, here's an extract of that circuit. The red line is the path from S2-3 to the fault panel (A9). It shows all the components that the power passes through on the way. So to make sure I'm understanding, you tested for continuity between J2-R and P6-A and there is continuity? While you've got...