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What part is stuck, and what parts have you already pulled out of the hub? And do you mean the lockout or the actual hub/rotor assembly? Later, Joe

You could pull the entire wiring harness and controller card out intact and sell it for a decent amount if it functions properly. Same with the starter. I would personally hold on to the second alternator as a spare, but if you wanted to simplify, sell both isolated ground alternators and get...

No, the blackout system has nothing to do with the service light system. Later, Joe

If it's about the size of a pack of cigarettes, yes. The lights go through the firewall in the big gang connector on the back of the fuse box. IIRC, the lights are on the plug that is the farthest to the passenger's side. The first is the front lights and the second is the engine harness...

The bed is mounted backwards on that Dodge crew. The dimensions of the 101 box are: 100" overall length 58" from front edge to center of axle 42" from center of axle to rear edge 74" overall width The dimensions for the 105 box are: 108" overall length (inside box) 83" overall width Cannot...

The first thing you should check is to make sure that the replacement alternator is actually one with an isolated ground. Take a multimeter and check for continuity between the ground stud and the alternator case. If there is continuity there, you have a non-isolated ground alternator that will...

Does it flash with the hazards on? Also, did you replace the bulb with another one just to be sure it's not a bad bulb? Later, Joe

The only parts that I have found expensive on my 1009 is the injection pump and starter. The rest of the parts are standard GM K5 stuff which is pretty cheap too. The glow plugs are more expensive than spark plugs, but they are designed to last much longer than spark plugs too. Also, most diesel...

If you mean why doesn't the CUCV have dash vents in the front, it's because they were a base model truck without A/C. To add the dash vents, you would have to cut out the mount for the dash mounted bracket, then you would have to get a plenum box that has the heater side mounts for the vents...

Remove all the cables from the rear battery and see what it reads post to post... I highly doubt that it is truly at 20V. Just out of curiosity, is your multimeter an automatic ranging one? It might be reading something other than volts (like Milivolts or something). At 20V across the rear...

The only place that I can find as a common circuit between the two systems (BO and Service) is the orange feed wire that runs from the center of the left light control switch and the fuse in the fuse box (the one above the lower flasher can) I'd start there. Later, Joe

The rear reads 20 across its own two posts or across both batts? If it's 20 across itself, that battery is severely overcharged. If it's 20 across both batts, it's severely undercharged. From terminal to terminal on the rear battery it should read between 12 and 14V and across both batteries it...

The regulator is probably fine, it just needs to be cleaned/lubed unless it's actually missing parts. The problem is the missing weatherstripping letting the window move around too much. Unless you mean the glass fell out of the metal mount where the regulator's wheels run. I haven't replaced...

Ask for two A/C relays for a 1990 Jeep Cherokee. They're just standard Bosch relays. They might have a mounting tab that the original doesn't but you can just break it off with a pair of pliers. Later, Joe

NP, just wanted to clarify. Pics would be great... :-D Later, Joe

Are you referring to the felt in the top channel or in the tailgate window rails or both? Later, Joe

If you don't know what the starter is, just drop the coin on a replacement to remove all doubt. That or go back to the dealership and try to get the starter that came off of it and have it rebuilt. Later, Joe

Front battery negative goes to the radiator support Front battery positive goes to the rear battery negative Rear battery positive goes to the firewall junction block Small 12V feed wire should be on the rear battery negative Later, Joe

The A2 cabs are slightly different than the A0/A1 PM sent Later, Joe ETA: Didn't notice that this was a month old... *sigh* probably crushed down by now.

It might have been set up that way so that the truck could 'squat' in the rear to get under lower trailers. Could also have been to eliminate suspension shocks to a mission specific trailer with sensitive equipment inside. I'd vote for the first one though, the 5th wheel height of the A1/A2...