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Holy cow. I just spent the last hour and a half reading through this whole thread. This is a very impressive 1009 setup. Definitely giving me ideas! Anything new? I would LOVE to see some more progress on this. I'm really curious about the gauge cluster.

That's the one, the 12v bus. I measured it - between that connector and engine ground, I'm getting 12.5v.

I haven't officially measured, but I'm estimating 18-20 for my M1009 as well. And this is with a leaking fuel pump and bad transmission vacuum lines (shifting at higher than usual RPMs).

The procedure I was talking about - utilizing the diamond-shaped terminals located above the GP relay - the 12 volts to that terminal is coming straight from the positive of the rear battery. At least that's how it is on my truck. I'm not sure if someone else wired it that way, though. So if I...

Awesome replies, thanks guys. I'll consult the TMs as well for diag. Another task to add to the list, I suppose. Hah.

Big +1. Necessary tasks on a late-model 350, in my opinion. Especially the intake gaskets and FI spider, which are very common issues for these engines.

I should do this as well. I feel that my shift points are a bit high. I have to accelerate to 55-60 to shift into 3rd, every time.

Ahhh yup, poorly written - my mistake. I meant to say that I'm going to use the diamond-shape terminals above the GP relay, as the 12v source. Thus eliminating the GP resistors, and its 24v feed.

Made a trade+cash deal with a coworker here at Fort Campbell. Not sure where it came from originally.

Man, I didn't need to hear all that. My pass side vent window just fell out recently. A friend opened it to smoke, and commented on saying how loose it was. And out it went. aua

I'm going to do the bypass tonight as well. I won't be using a switch (yet, but I will in the future) so I was planning on simply redirecting the output from the resistor up to the diamond-shaped terminals above the GP relay. I know that's a 12v source and from what I understand, this is common...

That's my line of thinking as well. I already have it out, and it looks pretty horrible. It may still carry continuity, but for how long? If I'm replacing the blower motor anyway, I might as well pair with a new resistor.

Another thing to add - do the GP resistor bypass mod. The CUCV utilizes a 24v system, with 12v glow plugs. The resistor reduces the 24v down to 12v, to feed the proper amount of voltage to the glow plugs. The problem is when one glow plug goes bad, it increases the voltage input to the...

Yeah I will. I see that cucvelectric.com sells an entire fuse set - the good kind, too.

^ Exactly my next plan of action. Seems to be another one for the list of common issues on these old beaters. (I say "beaters" in a loving way, of course!)

I'll look into that, thanks. I'm just gonna go ahead and plan on getting a new blower motor and resistor. All I need is a payday!

Diagnosed the heater circuit faults more, and determined the voltage drop is at the fuse block, from previous melting damage. Fixed the left rear taillight... I wasn't getting ANYTHING from that corner. No running light, brake light, reverse. So I pulled it off and cleaned up the ground. It got...

I picked up an in-line ATC fuse holder, so I'll be re-wiring that circuit very soon. Not tonight, though. Too cold for that crap.

Thanks for the great reply, Scott. Here's what I'm working with. Below is the replacement switch I'm using (Dorman on-off-on switch, so I can have two fan speeds). The other pic is obviously the blower motor resistor. As far as the heater circuit - I've determined I'm just going to re-wire it...

That's what you ended up doing? What size fuse did you use for that circuit? This will be my last resort. I'm going to continue to diag and hopefully fix it in an OE state. If not, then I'll splice it.