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Hecht Rubber in Jacksonville, FL can make or find ANYTHING... give him a call, tell him a guy from Mike Davidson Ford sent you.

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I've been to three dealerships/garages and 4-5 different mechanics... NO ONE can tell me wth is going on with my 6.2L M1009 Symptoms as follows: Slight vibration (no banging, knocking, etc) at idle in neutral, engine running. Increased vibration in gear (dash starts making a little noise)...

1. Harbor Freight or Northern should have one. A steady hand is the big issue ($20) 2. Same as above ($5) 3. You can use a NEW bearing race as a guide along with a set of feeler gauges or if you don't have those a business card ($8) Most of the above is easy to find/purchase. I don't think...

Here's what I would do... Find a HIGH speed dremel and some cutting oil... Douse spindle with oil Place fire extinguisher nearby Notch stuck nut with dremel on BOTH SIDES! Bust in half with cold chisel and BFH. Check spindle for heat damage and concentricy sp* with a micrometer, Good luck.

Sounds like it's heat/rust seized... :/ You're in for a **** of a lot of work. Post pictures and I'll try to advise you better.

This: Re: GM 10 Bolt Front Axle Seals Just did this the other day..... Drain diff fluid. While doing this pull shafts out. Pull carrier out, taking care to note placement and orientation of bearing caps (they have to go back in the same place in the same direction). You will...

ORD is d*** good stuff.

The knuckle should be fine. I've seen them break/get destroyed, but usually only after the rest of the axle is toast. You might want to check the ball joints too. You have a Dana 44 under your 1009?? A new axle might be the way to go depending on how shot everything is. I would seriously...

>< I'm sorry guys but a 1008 is a 5/4 ton with a Dana 60 front. A 10-bolt (I.e. Civvy Blazers 1/2 ton and 1009s 3/4 ton will NOT work) Two completely different animals. Diedenbear makes a set, and you can get some from Florida Powertrain here in Jacksonville the last time I called. I can...

The things that suck about these handles is the entire thing usually snaps off. I'm working on a fix, already have half the prototype done if anyone wants to beta test when I get it finished.

Service the other side if possible Replace if necessary or worn. No reason to spend money if you don't need to. I can't answer the brake question. Depends on a bunch of factors, when they were last serviced, wear, rust, warping, etc. Check belts, hoses, tie rod ends, u-joints, buy new...

I'm in the same boat you are. Something's got to give somewhere.

Not to point fingers or name names but you might want to check the wheel bearings too... rofl

You might also try the multi switch in the column (turn signal switch) goes bad a LOT in those trucks.

I would hope so. Still looks pretty cool. Reminds me of the old headlight covers I saw.

I need to paint my headlights that color ; )

Part numbers: Bearing set (NAPA-Outer): BRG BR35 Bearing race (NAPA-Inner): BRG LM104949 Bearing cup (NAPA-Inner): BRG JLM104910 Hub nut (Oreillys-Inner): Dorman 615-120 Hub nut (Oreillys-Outer): Dorman 615-121 It'll take some time if you want the cross washer too. Good luck dude...

Not to bring the dead back... but where would one get the bleeder screw? The TM parts manual is no help.

Just replace eveything that comes with the warn kit and you'll be fine.