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I got power assist with me all the time. hahahaha

that looks almost like a piece of casting. check around for a broken piece and dont forget to inspect the cover too. It would be nice to know where it came from.

Maybe a engineer or smart person can convert 74 @ MM3/stroke. I know my deuce doesn't burn 35 GPH, but how much returns back to the tank is a mystery. I have a external pump rated at 35GPH and it works fine.

try a lawn mower shop. or a motor cycle shop. its common on throttle cables.

you could just jump the starter with battery cables to check it out.

dont forget to buy or modify your fuel plate, then you can roll the coals on the Libs.

I have my pump on the rig I built driven off a small 4 cylinder Diesel engine I got out of a ford ranger truck....1984 I think. Often a auxiliary engine driven pump is cheaper and easier to maintain/operate too.

when you get it put back together, possibly run ISO VG 22 cold weather hydraulic oil in it, and run a fan mounted oil cooler for extended summer use to avoid changing oil seasonal.

After reading the first post, the guy found his answer on post #57 of the tread. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/oregon-m35a2.80230/page-3

the TM's also give you a step by step procedure. You'll have to dig around for it under the Deuce TM section of this website.

I mounted a momentary switch on the cross member and when in reverse, it makes contact with the shifter shaft, and powers up my reverse light on the back. Easy to do when the access cover is off.

there is only a small cover on it and no way to inspect it without removal and disassembly. the TM's don't give specs on shaft rotational play/backlash. So if it works, and isnt leaking from the seals, there is no input/output play, and no metal in the oil when you drain it, you should be good...

a big strap wrench around the balancer, or weld up a crows foot to grab the outside and inside of the balancer. A pipe wrench used sideways as a crows foot would do it too if you have the clearance, and dont mind a few "teeth marks" on it.

its the front axle, and the pumpkin is likely gone with 1" pinion play.

As Todd stated. Remove the drive hubs, have a machined shop remove the splines in them. slap some gease in them and rebolt them on. when you get home, you can order new ones for 140$ a pair. Also, changing pinion bearings isnt a road side repair.

t Try the John Deere dealer. the JD4020 had the ether start port with canisters.

Seems the very opposite of a clogged system. It should Idle ok and run out of fuel at higher rpm's. My guess is that you need to adjust the throttle. The dirty fuel system is a separate issue.

Better weather.........so you're going to do it in the Spring?

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/injector-nozzles-1-vs-2-hole-which-do-i-want.184610/

And safety glasses. Some metals will splinter/chip when knocking the crap out of them.