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If you're going to actually put anything in the bed weight wise get rid of the body lift, or, plan on doing some support for the center ribs which usauly lie on the frame! oops, just saw the parts truck caveat! Uh. looks better than some of the drivers i see running around Eric And, speaking...

Would think you've lost a ground source either in the headlight or running light. When headlights are on it's probably feeding ground back through turn signal filament! As said before examine sockets. Make sure correct bulbs! On pick-ups there's a ground behind taillight housing to bed, not sure...

That would be a ground issue!

J e g s has precision kit for 51

Need thoughts, experience or opinions on door glass weather strip and felts. Did google the site, but didn't find anything especially informative! Not doing the vent seals as they are decent. Need the glass runs and the felts. Seeing Soffseal and Fairchild. Soffseal apx 120, fairchild 70ish...

Per Ricks request... Some more pics below. This has been over a year and a half now! Problem with painting the frame is everything that follows must also be painted and or new!!! My wife has been understanding, kind of..... She recently said "Isn't this just a plow truck?"... I think she was...

Year and a half later I'm finally putting front clip back on the 1008 frame off restoration... And, forgotten how hood release cable routes through radiator support. Somebody take a pic and post?? Thanks, Eric

x2 on the connector! My truck has the 24 volt gauge delete which means theres a hole there. When blower would stop working i'd reach in and wiggle the connector until blower came back on! Off topic, Yearly fall reminder: Pull resistor out of the heater box and make sure the mice haven't encased...

Nice write-up! I also have a 350 in mine, but a "simple" gen 1! I retained the stock radiator as mine was still good. I spliced hoses with appropriately sized exhaust pipe swedged as needed as i couldn't justify spending money on a smaller radiator! The purists won't love it, but simple and...

Headlights: LEDs are expensive and my pockets weren't that deep at the time. Went with the Hella H4 conversion units. Much better than stock. Then relay the headlights so you're not sucking all the juice through the switch! All the other signals and lens stuff, fleaybay buy it now. I do all...

Hitches can be installed with some mods. The rear D'ring lower support gets cut off but is still secured via the upper support. I've towed a little over 8k, wouldn't think much more than that would be real safe! Besides, the 6.2 is not going to like excessive weight behind it. (SBC in mine)...

Guess I'll jump back in..... I did extensive research when i re-did the interior in the Camaro. I had also researched sound deadening materials prior for customers cars at the shop (Vintage, British, etc). The more home work i did i finally figured out that every product was usually compared...

On my 1008 I used 3m sound deadener in cab and jute padding under carpet. I have used dynamat products, but couldn't justify the expense on a work truck. Still assembling, so can't give results! On my camaro i used dynamat extreme and dynamat liner on interior. Then used a heat shield pad...

As said above, 6 point good socket is the key! Map gas torch may be helpful also. Heat the flange near the bolt.... Once the other three are out you may be able to swivel the strap a bit to help loosen the stripped one....

The "easy" button is buy the t tap connector. Plugs into factory wire harness at rear connector.... Less than twenty $ and no hacking up wires!

How about a fitting in the trans pan?

What I've done for power on two of my 6.2 trucks was..... 6.2's come out. Gen 1 SBC goes in! Drove my 84 C30 dually for over 20 years..... Think I've had my M1008 for over 12 years now. With 20 years of active duty service i drove enough rattly loud diesels to last a lifetime! Go figure, have to...

Did a little googling after replying yesterday (like to be semi-educated).... From what i could gather, the TH350s supposedly had weaker bell housings and could break under hard use. This may have been the same deal with early 700r4's. The CUCVs had the HD stamped on the trans cases and may...

But, the 1008's did NOT have the transfer case brace rod!

Pinion snubber is not an issue... Had to remove recently on my restoration/frame replacement w/sbc, but haven't driven it yet. As far as i understand, the transfer case rod was not installed on the turbo 400's on the 1008's, so wouldn't think it's an issue with a SM465. As for the frame...