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I have already replaced all the seals in the main cylinders at this point, and replaced the rod on the bucket cylinder because there was a big chunk of chrome missing. It started with one of the boom cylinders when I first started playing with it right after I got it. But of course as soon as...
I replaced the hoses to the bucket cylinder, and then decided I needed to solve every hydraulic leak while I was at it. The Stabilizer cylinders were the worst offenders but at least one of the swing cylinders was bad too. So now I have all new seals. I think I may need to replace a hose or...
One thing I forgot to say is avoid the temptation to build a Frankenstein system, buy sufficient batteries to meet your current and foreseeable future needs. Batteries perform best when they are matched, I think a rule of thumb is that your batteries are only as good as your weakest link...
The batteries will be your main expense. LIFEPO4 batteries are the way to go but as noted expensive. Look at it as a long term investment.
Start by understanding what your energy needs are. Analyze your bills and look at the months where your electricity usage was highest and figure out...
I can go up to a 1/2 inch on my tank, and I think I will get a pressure switch etc. to do that. Part of the reason I want to go with hydraulic is that I am off grid running off solar. (I have 30 kWatts of battery but constantly running that compressor to only get a few licks on a stubborn...
I am looking at buying a Stanley impact wrench to use with my FLU. Looking back through the thread it looks like the 3/4" version (Stanley IW12 ?) I have a 40 gallon air compressor but it is not up to the job for some higher torque nuts/bolts. What is you all's opinion is it worth the cost.
It was an extended battle, but I finally got the stabilizer cylinders separated from the rest of the FLU. I cut the pins on both sides, then some friends with a cutting torch and a smaller diameter pin showed up to help. We heated it to red hot and took turns hitting it with a 16# sledge. We...
I like the idea of using the coupling nut and two bolts. I had thought something like that would help. The only issue I see would be that one side of the pin might stay stuck and the other push out and I would be left trying to get the other half out. For that, maybe I can use some 1/2 in...
I think the pins were toast before I got started , and they definitely are now. When I get them out I will definitely lube them with anti-seize before putting the new ones in. My dad worked in the weld shop at the CF&I Steel Mill in Pueblo, he would have just cut them out with a torch but he...
I have had two frustrating days trying to remove the pistons from both of the stabilizers. The pins that attach the rod to the foot are seized on both sides, and nothing I have tried has budged them. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. i will detail what I have done so far.
These are...
I have had a few internal conversations with myself if I should post on this or not, but decided I might as well. For the last couple of weekends I have been working on the leach field for our septic system. The leach field needs to be 12 feet wide and 76 feet long. I dug 2 trenches 14 feet...
For the last couple of years I have fought that door. I didn't even get it out of the door I used electronic contacts cleaner and sprayed it through the door handle hole and bolted it back in. and it worked the first time I tried.
I bought a good quality laser level, and it saved my bacon. The Harbor Freight laser level was a impossible to get right, and it was not even close. I have a gravity flow septic system and the depth is critical to get right. I was digging in the wrong place. I had to move it out another...
Not sure where I read it but one source said 1/8" per foot on the leach field, and lots of sources say 1/4" per foot on all the plumbing leading to the septic tank. When I asked a friend of mine who has installed septic systems for a living for over 40 years he said it should be level because...
I am going to change my focus from digging the trench for the power line to installing the septic system. (I have a lot of work for my SEE).
I have been told that I need to make the leach field as level as possible. For the power line trench I did not care as long as the depth was at least...
SEE HMMH HME Owners
The number under the topic is the post number, to convert to the page divide by 20 and add 1 to the value.
So for example: for discussion on fabrication 9/20 = 0 + 1 or page 1
for NAPA oil and fuel filters 31 / 20 = 1 + 1 or page 2...
I looked back through my EI orders and saw that I ordered the replacement master cylinder back in December of 2018, so it has been a while. Since then I moved about 190 miles south west, and have most of my worldly possessions divide between two shipping containers while we build our house...
yeah, I went through several rounds of bleeding the brakes and replaced the master cylinder and reservoir. Lots of not cheap dot 5. This thread has a lot of info on building a pressurized bleeding set up for the two reservoirs. Unfortunately for me I discovered too late where the leak is, and...
I was looking for information on connecting an air hose up to the SEE, and came across this old exchange between 911joeblow and The Flu Farm on the subject, but there did not seem to be any resolution. Does anyone know where to get the fittings to connect an air hose to the tanks? I understand...
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