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Turning the valve off does not help, it still bubbles out through the reservoir. If I remove it entirely, that could solve the issue with the air leak. Depending on the expense of the alternatives that maybe the route I take, but it would likely require more work to get right, than it would take...

I finally got back after the SEE this weekend. I saw that the alcohol reservoir was empty, and refilled it. After running the SEE to get it warmed up I shut it down. I started hearing what sounded like the SEE was boiling over. I tracked it down to the alcohol reservoir. I suspect I have found...

Hi Fuzzy. I finally got back to working on the SEE yesterday and have had partial success finally on getting the dash lights and gauges working. First let me say that my nephew turned me on to a tool called "Power Probe II" with it I was able to verify bulbs, and track down issues pretty...

Thanks peakbagger, I got the alcohol injector sorted out last year. That is a good reminder though for cold weather.

When you replaced your canister, where did you buy it, and how much (approximately) did you pay?

To date it has started every time I tried (at least since I took the starter apart, cleaned and re-lubed it). What prompted me to ask is when it's warm it starts on the first turn, but last time I tried it was probably around freezing ~ 30° F and it probably fired after 3 revolutions. Not...

Hi Everyone What is your collective opinion on the KBI ether system on the 419? With all the cold weather we have been having and my intent to move it up to it's new home at about 8000 feet, cold starting has gotten onto my priority list. There was no cylinder on the metering solenoid when I...

Wow $40 for working 24 volt alternator seems like a steal. I paid 100 for one off E-Bay that was supposed to be new, but even though it was shrink wrapped in plastic was clearly not new (even though it was in really good shape). Since the alternator bench tested OK you are probably not far from...

From my limited experience, you should pull the alternator and check it out. Like I said before TM 5-2420-224-34 gives instructions on how to test it with a multi meter. After you get that sorted out you can probably remove the hot wire to the starter button, which depending on how it was done...

The reason I thought it might have been over charging is the needle on the gauge was just under the line between 28 and 32 which would be 30 volts. I checked the voltage between the positive terminal on the starter and the negative ground with an accurate digital voltmeter and got 27.4 volts.So...

Hi FLU farm Can you verify what the proper behavior of the alternator gauge is? After I turn on the master disconnect, and turn the key switch to on the alternator gauge shows ~ 25 volts. When I start it and bring the rpms up to 8K it goes up above 28 volts which seems a bit high. While running...

Hi Fuzzy, Have you had in luck in tracking down the problem? I have gotten busy with other stuff, but I believe that I have a similar problem because may of my panel lights, and the gauges don't function. There are some (?? unexpected at least for me ??) relationships in how the components are...

I think it is the 9350, but do yourself a favor and replace all three. They are not that expensive and a real pain to replace. The one you need to replace is the inner one so you have to pull them all off anyway. in the parts manual 1, pg 0177 0-4, It says the part number is 9365 I think that...

Thanks Guy, That is the first good reason to keep it in place.The two reasons I want to get rid of it is first the wires are not on the schematic and wind up confusing me while I try to sort it out. Second the after thought way it was added on in my opinion results in wires running along places...

So far every one seems in agreement that getting rid of that crap is a step forward. I don't plan to focus strictly on removing it, but while I am working my way through my electrical woes if I trace something back to the STE/ICE-R, I will disconnect and if not too difficult drag it back to the...

I realize I may be stirring the pot, but I have no interest in getting the test box. Does anyone have any reason not to begin removing the STE/ICE-R related wires when I encounter them? I am starting with 21S and 21M which run from the starter to the big port in the cab.

Correct, 87 is out when the relay is energized. 87a is out when the relay is not energized. Because the relay is energized it is sending the 24 volts that would normally go to the start button to the cold start set of circuits, the red line remains at 0. If I remove the light blue line then the...

I finally got around to digging in and testing it a bit more, and did enough prep work so I can ask the question better and hopefully get better results. I took the 2 pages of wiring diagrams from the Student manual on the 24 VOLT STARTING SYSTEM S.E.E and color coded the wires to make it easy...

I finally got around to digging in and testing it a bit more, and did enough prep work so I can ask the question better and hopefully get better results. I took the 2 pages of wiring diagrams from the Student manual on the 24 VOLT STARTING SYSTEM S.E.E and color coded the wires to make it easy...

That is odd if I run a hot wire to the other pair of wires it activates the starter. I will have to take a closer look at it and repeat the experiment, maybe I got my wires crossed. :)