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The button under the hydraulic head probably came off. Search Hydraulic head and you’ll find a lot of information on this.

Just type what your looking for on the internet seach engine and it will pop up. MRAP rims are cheap adapters a little more and tires can go as high as you wanna pay. Just use really strong bolts to bolt them on.

You can get everything for a lot less than $1000 a wheel and shipping rates are down right now too.

Assuming your talking about the power steering on an M54…If so it’s usually hydraulic fluid. Definitely download or buy the TMs though.

I get to drive by this behemoth at least a couple of times a week and also had the pleasure of speaking with this wonderful couple when they left the truck in New Mexico. My hat is off to anyone that’s willing and able to take a trip like they did and I for one am jealous of the truck and the...

The 15.5s are going to be a lot smaller than the 14s. I wouldn’t do it. Bead is the same. 395/85r20s and the 15.5r20s are basically the same size. 15.5 is about 45 inches tall 14s are around 48 inches tall

Is the cable to the transmission supposed to move like this or is it supposed to be adjusted and tightened down? Also is there any sources to get new modulator and throttle springs. Mine are a bit worn out.

With the On Spot chains just remember not to go very fast. They are fine till around 35 mph but after that they tend to tear right off. We have been experimenting with snow socks this winter and have actually been pretty impressed with them. They are a lot easier than chains and give pretty...

Hello from right up the interstate!’

I’m not exactly positive on this but that looks like your low air pressure switch that shuts off the buzzer once you build air pressure. I would try replacing it. Type in M35a2 low pressure switch and see if it looks the same.

Make yourself a pressure blender out of a weed sprayer. It’s pretty easy and it makes the job a lot faster and easier. There’s examples on here somewhere.

I bought one on EBay last month. Just type in M939 technical manual on your search.

I got the front upper done today in about an hour!! I figured out that this “Golden” wedge from Harbor Freight fits right up against the bolts behind the spring pack and a few heavy wacks on the pointed side knocks them loose. Use safety glasses…. I pulled the ends together with a ratchet...

How do you guys get everything lined up when your putting the new dogbones on?

Got the rear upper done today…The u-bolt nuts wouldn’t budge at all so I put a splitting wedge in there at an angle and knocked the heck out it till it came out. The hardest part was trying to get the new one back in. Just couldn’t get the holes lined up at all. I’m bleeding and bruised but...

Thank you for pointing that out. I might as well since I’ll have it apart. I have a full set of the paper TMs coming in this week. I’m getting tired of trying to find what I need on the computer and printing up each set of sheets. I fell like I retain things better by flipping pages kinda...

Thank you. I’m not too intimidated by the dog bones. After that I’m replacing all the front axle seals and boots. For some reason that job scares me a bit. A lot more things to keep track of and remember…

Miss wrote that.. When I take the u-bolt off the spring pack does that top lifting shackle just come off?

I’m don’t think it’s going to be too bad. Even the cotter pins slid out pretty easy. It’s weird…some parts of this truck have quite a bit of rust and other parts don’t have any. The damn pins holding the drop sides for the bed were horrible. Took me a week and possibly some hearing loss...

If I take the u-bolts off of my spring pack can I take this top part off to access the bolts behind it? Seems like it would give me a lot better access to knock the hell out of them to free them up.