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Welcome from the Upstate!

So I replaced the sensor again with a new one and the tach is back to normal working fine. Sensors seem to be doubling in price so I was hoping someone had some input on how to fix my problem.

I was attempting to install a new serpentine belt, which was too long, and discovered my AC delete idler has a bad bearing. Mine had a squeek similar to yours. A new one is on the way.

Mine has the idler in place of the AC compressor which is why I ordered the long one.

Probably low but if someone was going to order a long one they could order a shorter, cheaper 98" one and have it shipped to me after I sent them mine.

I had bought a replacement belt last year and was going to replace it yesterday. After removing the old one, I realized my original was 98' not the 114" one I had bought. So if anyone with the 114" truck needs a new Dayco belt, I'd love to swap you mine for a 98" one.

My tach went bonkers yesterday pegging out full rpm . Odd thing is, it did the same thing about a year ago and replacing the tach speed sensor fixed it. What breaks in these things and can they be checked or repaired? Do they serve any other purpose ,such as transmission control, in my 1045A2?

I tried mine after swapping both wires and it worked either way.

I installed the same one on my 1045A2 6.5 and it works fine including the hour meter.

I ended up ordering a different tach and it has been working fine. Search for this on Ebay M998 HMMWV HUMVEE BRAND NEW TACHOMETER Gauge 12469030

If you switch your negative, remember that the slave cable ground will need switched also. I disconnect power through my positive in my 1045 and it's been trouble free for almost 2 years now.

I took my wires underneath the insulation to the left of the shifter by the driver's seat. Then at the rear of the seat, crossover to the battery box through the tunnel at the reinforcement cross member behind the front seats. Then into the battery box at the left of the passenger seat. If you...

It could be your automatic advance plunger being corroded and stuck. It sits on the bottom and water collects in the engine valley and rust and corrosion sit in. My 1045A2 was doing exactly as you describe. I sent my pump out for a rebuild and they replaced all bad components and overhauled it...

I sent my very rough pump here last year for a rebuild. For less than $300 shipped both ways, it came back looking brand new. And it runs great.

There is no vacuum on your diesel engine and the fuel pump is mechanical, not vacuum operated. Open or remove the bleed screw at the filter, turn the engine over with the starter and see if you're getting pressure and flow. Or if you don't want to make a mess, remove the hose going into your...

Humvee lift pump uses vacuum and the Auto Zone one does not Are you referring to the mechanical lift pump on the side of the engine?

"M203" equipped pistol, nice.

Either of these two will work. I have used them before...

I don't think so. One is air and the other is hydraulic.