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Sweet! Sometimes the simple fixes work out.

One of the best guys I've ever dealt with for parts.

Jump out the pressure switch on your wet tank first.

That's normal in my experience. Tires heat up on the road, pressure increases and it deflates to normal pressure upon startup. Give it a minute to situate itself.

What is the best way to check that the switch is working?

Am I correct in saying that hash mark on the pump to the passenger side of cover mark is "retarded, not advanced"?

So I had my injection pump overhauled a while back by Diesel Care and Performance out of Tenessee and the HMMWV ran great ever since. A friend and I were talking about timing the pump so I decided to check mine. When I removed it to be sent out I had marked it's location and installed it in the...

Here's a couple of pictures of my brackets I had to cut and reweld.

I had to modify the brackets to put mine on my 1045A2. I don't know if it was an A1 or not.

Mine was leaking at the female QD fitting. This fixed it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F4IDENS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have mine on the positive cable, 24 volt side. Zero problems in over a year. I've done it in every military truck I have owned for 10 years.

IN

You are correct on them updating the clutch also. The newer one has studs and nuts instead of bolts.

The hub is aluminum not plastic. The newer, replacement unit is a solid design. No rubber, no slip built in. As you look in the manual, it tells you to replace the old one with the newer design.

Do you have enough voltage to energize the relay? Try a jumper wire over the relay contacts or hook the battery wires up like original.

3/16 (#10) bolts. We used aircraft grade 10-32 bolts and locknuts. Maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch in length, I don't remember.

Leak on mine was the fan clutch disconnect.

http://hummer-hmmwv.tpub.com/TM-9-2320-280-10/css/TM-9-2320-280-10_313.htm

Here's pictures of my regulator with the green lights I spoke of in your other post. And my tach in use.