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Yes, that sounds correct. You should have fuel flowing, then it will suddenly stop right at the PC mark. I don't recall how far you have to turn the engine before fuel flow comes back, but it's not very far. The time when you have no fuel flowing from the pump is the time when it would be...

Yes, PC should line up slightly before TDC on cyl #1 compression stroke, shortly after the intake valve closes, but that stuff is mainly irrelevant for your situation because that is all mechanical connections between the cam and crank. It has nothing to do with the timing of the IP's fuel...

Both Airtex pumps will work and are identical in form/fit. Just 1 is a slightly higher pressure than the other if I recall. The fittings out of the Facet Cube will fit into the Airtex pump, just keep an eye on flow direction and all will work out good. You have to cut the plug off the old pump...

If the pintles pulled out easily you are 99% there already. Just clean off the tips of the pintles and get down inside the nozzle with some Berryman's B12 carb clean, or soak them for a day. Then get in there with a kids art paint brush or similar to scrub the opening a bit. Reassemble...

Yes, Don't run it too long in that condition. You will overheat the injectors and they will eventually start to stick if you get them too hot.

Humm.... SX460 on an 004/005 Eh? I've never tried it on that size machine, only the 3Kw machines, but I thought I read here on SS that the SX460 could not be used on those machines? Don't recall the exact reason, but think maybe it couldn't supply enough current possibly?? I remember RustyStud...

What does the primary fuel pump mounted to the left of the radiator look like? Is it a square body or round? If cleaning your switches etc. doesn't solve the problem, I'd suspect the pump itself. If it's a square body Facet pump I would either replace it now, or at least buy a replacement to...

If I recall correctly the transducer is the same as on an 002/003 and the signal coming out is not a voltage signal you're looking for. I think on that machine it's a mA DC signal. If you look on the face of the Hz gage on the right side, see if you see anything that says FS xx DC mA or anything...

This is probably the key indicator to your issue! And @jamawieb has already picked up on it... If your valve cover is getting abnormally hot within like 5 -10 minutes of running with no load, my bet is that your plunger guide in your IP has skipped 90* and your pump timing is now way off...

Too bad it doesn't say right on the face ( like most others do ) what the full gage swing power required is. Most MEP gages say if they are say 1A DC Full swing, or .5A AC , or whatever, depending on the application, that makes mixing and matching a no-brainer. In this case, that particular gage...

Take a look inside the control panel at the terminal block on the back wall. The 24V comes in from the stud on the starter and branches off to a couple different spots on the terminal block. You may have a bad connection at one of those spots. It's pretty easy to follow the 24V through the box...

On the IP, you may have reasembled it with the plunger 180* from the alignment marks. I worked on a 701 years ago ( same engine ) where the governor was acting all kinds of wacky and the thing would not run right... revving up, running away! Turned out the IP had been gummed up and the owner...

I don't think you need 28V for field flashing. Some folks use a 9V battery so I'd recommend staying in the 12V and under range first.

Did you test it between changing the original VR and changing the bridge rectifier? If not I think you need to back track and determine if you have a bad/incorrect connection somewhere or if you installed a bad part. What did you use for a VR, an OEM or something like Kurt's upgrade VR? If you...

AND... Don't hook the wires up backwards, make sure the AC input is on the left and DC out to the gage is on the right on the + and - screws, keeping the polarity marked on the meter that same as on the transducer. IF you accidentally hook the AC to the +/- wires simply detach the wires, place...

Sometimes starting it and releasing the start switch too soon can prevent proper field flashing, but on an 002 it is pretty rare to be able to build enough oil pressure to close the fuel solenoid holding circuit faster than flashing the field, so pretty unlikely. I assume you oil and temp...

That's fairly accurate, probably just a little bit of incorrect terminology but close enough.... The transfer switch isn't really taking 240V and splitting it into 2 120V buss bar feeds. Your Generator is producing 240V ( through 2 hot lines of 120V that are 180* out of phase ) those two 120V...

Sounds correct, so you're running 4 conductors to the transfer switch, correct?? 2 Hots, 1 Neutral and 1 Ground.... You don't really want to ground the machine separately at the shed, you want to be running your neutral and ground as separate conductors back to your main panel. From there the 2...

The SX-460 says you "may" have to wire in a manual field flash switch, but I've never needed to. Perhaps if the gen has been sitting a LONG time you may find the need to flash it, but probably not. If you go with the surplus original regulator I don't think you would need to manually flash...

You'll have to do a bit of testing to confirm, BUT the VR on those machines is definitely a known weak point. I've swapped every 016X that has ever crossed my doorstep over to an SX-460 regulator. You can find the Chinese ones for under $25, and they have always worked well for me. Pretty...