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Yeah, that's all wrong. If you're in North America the big wires should be brought in with a clockwise turn, otherwise the lectrons will be spinning the wrong way.
Well to be safe I ordered two of these: DBPOWER Car Battery Jump Starter 2500A 21800mAh - for up to 8.0L Gasoline/6.5L Diesel Engines. (one day sale)
I figure they'll be an asset in the truck or during a power outage- and winter is coming.
Coupon code NEASUMMER took 10% off so pretty much...
Ordered the core just now. NAPA has it for $50 and RockAuto has it for $42. I was going to go NAPA since they're local but their projected delivery date was later; so why spend more?
Has anyone tried those little jump boxes? I was thinking of getting a pair of them for the glove box- so at least I'd have some capability to jump both batteries once or the dead battery twice.
But if they don't work well, then I won't bother.
Your neighbors must love you.... :D
Paint job looks good! What are your plans for it? Are you going to run some bootleg TV programming or strip it all out?
Windshield fogging up on defrost.... slight coolant smell.....
Might be time to have a look at the heater core. :mad:
How much work is involved in getting at that thing? Are new cores even available?
Someone with more experience/expertise might need to comment, but running that size wheel on stock M1009 axles may not have the reliability you might hope for. It'll run the street OK, but may fail a diff or axle when you're far from civilization and pushing them.
I was walking from my building to my parking spot (at work) last week, came around the corner and heard a diesel idling... man that sounds familiar....
Got close to the historic building they're remodeling (navy base) and saw a familiar cammo paint scheme.... what the... is someone messing with...
Troll through craigslist or the local wrecking yard for sets of three. Nobody wants three wheels so you have a bargaining position.
Buy the three and you have two for the axle and one for a spare.
Here's mine. The top pic, the one on the right is the condition I got them in, and on the left...
I did that thing I swore I'd never do again - I took the top off. I may regret it later but for now it's a hoot. Took it out for a spin to make sure nothing was going to fly up in my face and passed an early 70s full topless Blazer.
I used a jackstand laid on its side as an expedient wheel chock while working on my Grand Cherokee; hey the shape was right so why not. :unsure:
Forgot about it and backed the jeep right over it. I didn't notice it other than a mild bump- the weight of the jeep pancaked it flat. I discovered...
I had an '86 Ranger my dad gave me that had driveline vibration. I put it up on the jackstands and sure enough the driveshaft was out of phase. Dad was surprised because his regular mechanic insisted they marked the driveshaft when they took it out.
Make sure all the u-joints line up.
Dimension A is probably the most critical- it will either fit inside the trailer, in front of the wheel well, or not.
Dimension B you have, so determine whether or not it will fit ~inside~ the trailer. Measure your trailer carefully. Add a half inch to account for the rivet heads if it's close...
Just wanted to point out that the tailgate won't open with the glass only down an inch. It needs to be almost all the way down to allow the tailgate to release, then once down you roll the glass back out.
That was the first repair I did on my M1009 when I got it.
Looking at an e-receipt I find: Wesbarg 7-way W/ 6 Long Coiled Cable - Trailer End from etrailer.com, however searching their website doesn't turn up anything at all.
Here's the results of a search of their site for coiled cable: COILED CORD for a similar cord.
I have five 5-gallon cans of diesel in the shed. I figure I can go about two months driving to work (four days a week) if the M1009 tank is full at the start.
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