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I was speaking of using the air horn function, not the siren tones. Siren tones = trubba.

Check craigslist using the search terms 'federal signal' or 'whelen' and look for an old cop siren. I have a model with two 100 watt outputs and let me tell you, people soil their seats when I touch that thing off, more so now that it's windows-down weather.

I don't know if its the warm weather or what, but I've noticed the engine in my 09 is running smoother and quieter, and seems to have a bit more power lately. :beer:

If you're doing the seals around the top, here's a cheater: Classic Parts. Here are the four seals: 01-817 (1976-91) Blazer - Body Side Seal - Le1 $29.95 01-818 (1976-91) Blazer - Body Side Seal - Ri1 $29.95 01-813 (1976-91) Blazer - Upper...

After my panic stop on Monday I've noticed a very slight squeak in the brakes when rolling at low speeds, and since it was time to rotate the tires I figured it was a good time to have a look at the brakes. They're all getting to the replace-me point, but I didn't see anything out of the...

I haven't noticed any cracking, but then I also know a little about torques and such, so I didn't smoke them down so hard the fiberglass would break either.

Oh! Sorry, I thought you were putting it over the cab. I installed a rack on my hard-top that I got from ProLine Racks. The 58" length is perfect for the cap. There are three thru-bolts at each end which line up great with the three steps on the inside of the cap. Look inside at the top of your...

Yes, there is a little space between the sheet metal on the cab roof. Why would you use a false gutter kit when you have a real gutter already?

Today I did my first panic stop in the M1009. I was cruising smooth at 60MPH in the left traffic lane, with an additional HOV lane to my left. The cars in my lane came to a stop right where the HOV lane merges with the left lane (I guess people couldn't figure out how to merge so everyone...

Rolled mine over. It's like it's new again!

I have four 8' sticks of new aircraft seat track. I'm hoping to mount some 1' sections in the bed and under the seat to provide tie-down points for different boxes= sort of a modular set-up. Off-road recovery gear in a box, around town gear in a box, etc. I'm just not sure I can access the...

"REACH zero two seven seven, company traffic two-o-clock and level, caution wake turbulence."

It's a somewhat lengthy description for a relatively short process. I started by stripping everything out of the bar and cleaning it up good. I painted the top OD green. Then I took a hacksaw blade and carefully cut the very top of the reflector cups off (it has three notches to accept the...

Mine does- I think that's normal. When I got the truck and did the first oil change I greased up the tie rods- the grease chased a little rusty water out. The steering still feels tight, so I'm dragging my feet on swapping them out. I reassembled the steering stabilizer with a light coating...

I modded a Whelen Edge lightbar for mine. I modified the reflector cups to accept some 35 watt HIDs. Here's the set-up: Six forward facing 35 watt HIDs Two 55 watt halogen bulbs in the angled reflectors Two 55 watt alley lights The entire front of the bar has clear lenses To the rear, I have...

Swapped the steering stabilizer out for a new one; no drama. I'm wondering if I need new tie-rod ends, one has a torn grease boot and they all seem to have more play than I think is good (but I'm no expert).

So it sounds like the 40 amp fuse is perfect then. It'll allow the lights at ~38 amps, but blow above 40. I tested them out this morning on my drive to work and they're some kind of bright, just pointed much too low. I'll run them intermittently until I get the proper solenoid.

Well, color me chagrined. I stopped at NAPA after work to pick up the heavier duty solenoid, got it home and it's the same one that had the meltdown. So a 200 amp solenoid melted down running 900 watts of lights? I wish I was good at math.... Well, it's made in China, so maybe I just got a...

Mine does the same thing every now and then. Big CLICK, then nothing. Try again and it starts right up. I always thought it was a starter shim issue from reading in here. Whatever it is it jams up, then once the starter and solenoid is de-energized it figures itself out.

I finally got the landing lights wired up. So here's the run-down: 8 gauge wire from the 24V bus bar- a very short run to the fuse. 8 gauge wire from the fuse to the solenoid. 8 gauge wire from the solenoid to just shy of the lights, where it splits into two 10 gauge wires, one to each light...