Search results

Zero ohms

Not sure what to do next. Charged batteries, jumped CB2 and nothing. Solenoid still doesn't pull up. So I've got 25v going in to CB2-1 and 25v coming out of CB2-2 but when I move S1 to start position CB2-2 drops to 18.7v. When I apply 24v directly to solenoid it pulls up like it should and when...

So now everything I test goes from 24V before starter engaged from S1 down to 17.8V it's 28 degrees F outside and probably time to put a charger on the batteries.

So after studying your schematic (with colored lines...and thank you for that) the only thing between the batteries and S1-11 to bring the voltage down from 24V would be CB2, if I'm reading the schematic correctly. Would you agree?

Ray fuel pumps come on like usual in prime position, heard glow plug relay kick in and glow plugs are heating up. I jumped a wire from positive battery terminal to positive input of IP solenoid and it pulled up perfectly and the starter motor engaged. I did not have CB2 pushed in when I did...

Only getting 19.9 volts between pin 28 & K5-9 and K5-9 to solenoid

Pin 28 also has a jumper to K3 relay

Could that be pin #28 on S1

Well that didn't work at all. Wired IP valve open, engaged heaters, primed, start...starter engaged but engine did not fire at all. Hummmm! Checked all negative wires at starter and traced them inside control box. All good! This gremlin is a tough booger!

Reconnected solenoid and checked voltage on start. It was 19.7 volts. Solenoid still is not pulling up. Is it ok to hold the IP valve in the open position manually and try to start?

SO with batteries disconnected and testing continuity between the 2 terminals on the IP solenoid I get a tone with the wires to the solenoid disconnected. Testing the continuity between the two wires feeding the solenoid I get nothing.

Hey Ray, good to hear from you. I have the over temp sensor bypassed. I will try you suggestion in the morning on the solenoid. Hope you are enduring the winter so far. Now time for a cold German Altstadt amber.

what started all this was I was trying to find out which terminal on the gov solenoid was negative. So with batteries disconnected I touch multimeter (set to tone continuity) to one terminal and got a tone then I touched to the other terminal and laaaso got a tone. Don't think this is right but...

Well gentlemen, it's been a while so here goes. After Ray rebuilt IP and injectors my 003A ran like it was new, so all was good. Started it about every 30 day to keep everything in good order...all still good. Got busy and let it sit for about 6 months, batteries went dead and would not take a...

So now I have the throttle lever ball joint socket worn out. Anyone have any replacement ideas or where to find a replacement please.

Reckon that makes good sense because MOST of the aircraft engines I work on have no electrical system, not even starter. Thank you very much.

I've been told most of my many years tinkering with small aircraft and diesel engines of all sorts and sizes that when you start them cold you should run them at idle, let the pressures build and the engine warm up. But I read somewhere that a good, continuous run generator should never idle or...

Ray if you need to see the video, my cell is 254/644-4256. If you will text me your cell I can forward the video to that.

I cannot get the video to upload.

So I removed the injector lines from the IP and turned the engine over utilizing th starter. A lot of fuel came out of port #1 but no other port. I held the IP valve open manually. Trying to upload th video.