Search results

Have you tried the Flux Capacitor? You'll need to be going downhill with a tailwind drafting an 18 wheeler to get her up to 88 MPH though...

I'm getting a little more cable every time I engage and disengage the brake. The old shoes were so worn out there was no thread left on the cable to adjust the bell crank nuts. Have just about enough room to try something I saw on Youtube Tactical Repair using heat shrink tape to "lock" the threads.

Re-shoed the parking brake. Removed the brake cable nuts and disconnected the bell crank spring. Removed hex cap bolt nut and washer, backed off the hex cap bolt and removed the whole assembly intact. Degreased, primed with Rust Fix and Rustoleum flat black primer. Removed the old shoed by...

Also check the Blinka relay, although it doesn't address your other issues. ls6-jpg.894912 (540×720) (steelsoldiers.com)

Hope not, I removed the elbow and vacuumed them out...after I saw your post :rolleyes: :) Now I'm thinking about installing a drain cock for any future condensate.

My rig came with a 3/4 inch draincock installed in the air intake pipe. I'm assuming it was a modification for squirting starter fluid directly into the air supply as it made no sense as a drain being mounted on the upper part of the air pipe. If there was that much "condensation" in my pipe I'd...

Just installed a Schlag deadbolt in the drivers side door on my 5 Ton. Lock's flush with the door, just have to paint it green. Shiny brass looks weird...

TM 9-2320-260-24P-1 page 140-149

Welcome from Massachusetts.

1976, started out with the Air Force in Georgia. Transferred to Air National Guard in Connecticut.

Installed a Dead Bolt lock on the drivers side door. Went with a keyed Schlag which was caged into a couple of rack rails cut to fit. The holes in the rails lined up with the lock cylinder and angle iron mounts. Installed it into the bottom of the door which is about waist height on me. Had to...

Maybe the clutch linkage?

Could be a ground issue. Tactical Repair described a situation when his right directional was on the low beam headlights also flashed. Turned out to be a bad ground in the right rear flasher. Electrons followed the path of least resistance into the low beams.

Having problems with your Blinkas check out Blinker Troubleshooting and please don't like or subscribe :rolleyes::D

Or your particular State requires it to pass tech...like seat belts. Circuit 21 I think

Check out Tactical Repair's video on this topic Front Parking Lights Modification In a nutshell you're pulling the parking light power circuit off the Panel Brt. switch circuit. In my rig that circuit has a pigtail that looks stock, guess someone had this modification in mind.

Can you disconnect the starter and attach a multitester to confirm the voltage? If it is indeed 12volts I wonder if a 12VDC to 24DC Boost converter regulator would work. Something like this; 12-24V Premium Quality Starter Solenoid Triple Stage Series-Parallel Magnetic

Greetings from Massachusetts...and you started off on the right foot with plenty of pictures (y)

Worked for me on transmission diffs and gear box of my M813, but I think the 5/8 socket plug worked best.

If you insure it with Hagerty and join their classic car club the first 100 miles of towing is free. That's how I got my M813 from Western Mass to Central Mass, a little over 100 miles, only cost me about $75. Everything else considered and you could get it for short money, would make a neat...