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Yep! 👍👍

Got confused this thread was about bypassing the FDC and the hose and fittings required. Trying to think of what lines you're wanting to replace and if they're not leaking why replace them.

Don't know if you're still interested in doing it but I googled small servos and found a 24 volt one with a built-in mounting flange. Problem is most of them are not waterproof. If I was going to do it I would do the solid cable push lock type.

Instead of a long post it'll be easier if you went to Jeepsinker YouTube call tactical repair and watch it a couple times. And there's plenty other YouTube videos on bypassing the FDC and adjusting the fuel rate afterwards.

Sorry I changed it yeah you caught me I said primary when I should have said final fuel filter. Whenever I use my phone and use the talk and text I usually mess up that and I don't prove read.

If you're going to switch out to Synflex air line you have to buy two new DOT Synflex compatible fittings one for the head and one for the final fuel filter! Napa carries what you need. Final fuel filter gets a 90°, the head gets a 45°. Also don't be afraid to crank down on that nut as that...

As far as the injector lines tips wearing out no. They're actually supposed to spin so whenever I'm doing an injector line I check to see if it spins. If I can't get it to free up or spin the best thing to do is put a little touch of grease on the part of the tip that meets the injector or the...

If I remember the member used a cable pull attached to the servo on the FDC. He drilled a hole in the top of plate of the FDC and hook the cable to the servo and was able to pull or push on it increasing or decreasing the fuel. In all reality yes it could be done by electrical servo to either...

Be interesting to see if those scratches are the whole length of the plunger and would extend into the pressure chamber. Please let us know or have some pictures. I guess everybody's got to be the first at something so congratulations on being the first and having this problem supposedly a new...

Nothing to take apart when you are checking to see if the sleeve slides freely on the plunger. Just flip it upside down. That way you can make a decision as to the problem and possibly fix it. Yeah I would think after 3 years the distributors probably not going to be any help. As soon as I get...

Send it back to distributor. That's a shame it had to happen to you but as per the TM you're supposed to check that before you installed the head. When holding the head up right the sleeve should be at the bottom. flip it upside down and the sleeve should slide by itself down the plunger by...

Guess it all depends on how sticky or stuck it is. If you would have had soldier b hit the starter when it started and you had your finger on the fuel control unit assembly you could have pulled it down to idle or completely back into the no fuel position if it was just sticky. Then there's a...

No it doesn't fall off just because you pulled the shutdown cable. We've talked about it and tried to guess where the problem lies when the clip let's go and the button falls off. The timing button is always in contact with the tappet lifter and the plunger. The clip only holds the timing button...

Guess it all depends if you want to go to all the trouble of pulling the head completely off and tearing it apart or something maybe more simple. My two cents if it was just assembly lube then the diesel fuel running through the head would clean that off. Can you still move the fuel control...

I had the same question when I got ready to do two of my 250s. Call Baldwin tech support they came back and told me to run the thicker one. No trouble with leaking from adapter to engine housing outer gasket.

After the first couple 809 series I bought the remote starter switch / button. The 250 Cummins was easy by just running in the thumb screw for the electric shutdown for the fuel turn on the master and use the remote starter button. Never had to do the 9:39 series or the Cummins 8 3 but still the...

Well I did say all 809 series I started in second low and then went to second high but that was not the truth. The 816 wrecker was way too heavy so it was starting second low run through all the gears and high fourth and fifth high or she fall flat on her face. I don't use first low gear in a...

Myself if you weren't having problems with the button and the head is not leaking from the o-rings just do the booster pump. If I remember right there's only been one person on the board that had trouble with the lower unit. The fulcrum arm came off one of the pins. Myself I don't like cracking...

Seems like the majority or 99% of the time we either have head button problems. Then also there is the o-rings and possible cracked head. Then you said there's a problem with a booster pump putting fuel into the crankcase. I'm guessing your FDC has been bypassed so that rules out putting fuel...

When I started working on these things in the collection I bought a remote starter switch. That if the PCB goes bad you just turn the ignition Master on and then use the remote starter button from the starter tripwire to a power source and they usually start. You can do a search on the PCB box...