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-Add this to your list; SCA (supplemental coolant additive). Head to the big truck parts store and get the test strips and a bottle of SCA. The engine coolant needs a specified PH level to prevent corrosion to the internals/sleeves. Your engine (NHC 250) is susceptible to this type of damage.

Coffey. This site is really good about friends helping friends; part numbers, sources of supplies, simple tech guidance, etc. Operating a 36K lb wrecker w/ three separate cable applications requires knowledge and guidance found in the tech manuals, not some notes jotted down from a web site...

Yep, Porky is spot on. Something is broken (other than the bell housing). Check all mounts and attach bolts, drivetrain droop is causing your issue.

The parts are out there, I got a set from a SS member, for a truck that was missing both sides. Ive seen them for sale on the web/eBay stores. Several members have been parting out some 5 tons. Beat the bushs.

Yep, congrats on your new truck. Have fun and be safe. Looks to be missing the left front inner fender splash guard.

Keep it simple, replace the ether bottle. Truck Pro or any big truck shop will carry the replacement bottles.

Indiana- yes, Kentucky - no. All my trucks have plates installed, magnetic plate bracket helps for removal for parades, etc. Its a minor inconvenience.

Yep, the correct tools and tech manuals make the difference. Make a list of needs and we'll get looking. I have the tools to break down the wheels. Still have a flat tire?

Privatewrench finally surfaces...glad the parts and tools worked out. Nice truck, all original and un-molested Ft. Knox truck. Now it needs a good blast down the highway. Then change some fluids. I have the J pipe for it. Nice work.

How did the water and frog get into the engine? The water(rust) line on the air filter housing indicates that the truck was in water, deep water. My accertion is based on the photos.

Did you know that the truck had been parked in 3-4 feet of water? Was is salt water? It may never be right after that. Put fresh fluids in it and run it on the road to get it hot and collect all the moisture. Then drain and refill again. Any rust on the cylinder walls will definally shorten...

Welcome from Kentucky. Find a nice M35. They all need alittle something done to them. It helps to have a mechanically inclined assistant. Working on Motorcycles and cars is a good start.Now you need to brush up on diesel theory/operation. These trucks are very simple.

Could be the u joint, pull the axle end caps and take it for a spin. That front u joint will not be rotating. The pictures of the u joint look good, failing u joints look like poop, lots of grease and metal spall .

Model of truck would be helpful, I'm going with a M939 series truck. The water issue is a dead dryer, time to service/replace the unit. The noise/vibration under the truck may be the carrier support bearing for the front axle drive line. I say "may" because not all M939 trucks are equiped w/...

Jim, Congrats on your new truck, now you need a new home... As for the truck, KY will require a title in your name, proof of insurance. Safety inspection is real easy, just the basics. Register as a Historic Vehicle, tax burden is a lot less or the vehicle will be subject to annual property...

Subscribed, good info regarding connectors.

So I sold my '73 M35A2C to a close friend. It's got a good home and is in his shop getting the TLC is needed. Hopefully he posts up here soon. He joined up a couple weeks ago. Where you at Private Wrench?

Ol' wise man once said,"technical manuals are the path to illumination", also prevents a big mess.......

Wes, you forgot to tell him about the small drain plug to drain said canister. Pull the drain to prevent a big mess. A small baking pan fits on the frame rail below the filter head. This will keep it to a small mess. Better have a x-large pan to drain the crank case. 5+ gallons of oil drains...

Bridge Plate is cool.