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Looked that up in a master book for seal cross over not showing anything . Are you shure of the number ? Any letters?
If that doesn't work just measure the bore it goes in and the shaft it seals on and I can get you any seal .there are no obsolete seal sizes if it was once made it still out...
That's all I got of the photo but it is the 70th engineer battalion B- company north of Pleiko 1968 I seen the photo a while back on vietnamwarhistoryorg
Big Tom
Kids are a great help and get to learn also. Put a nos transmission in mine wish there was 1/2" more room in back to get it lined up to go back in. I guess your pilot or input bearing were out to cause that wear.
When it was cold here in md mine was slow to go back to 0 but didn't over wind . Let temp come up and see, when it's warm it will be be easier to check out and it mite not be a issue.
Big Tom
Don't forget the bell housing plug. It's stored in a threaded hole next to the drain . Unscrew and move it over reinstall, have fun a make video
Big Tom
Just some problems I've seen , pull the rubber boot back on the master cylinder, u should see the piston all the way back against the snap ring if not your pushrod is to long or Rust on dirt is keeping it from comming back. Witch will block return hole. Also like some said take top off fluid...
I wasn't happy with the coolant heater so I found a 24 volt milliarty inverter . Now the old deuce has electric heat along with coolant heat , warm as toast now!!!
I had trouble with the hubs getting hot after new seals went in. Found that the offset was a lot more than old ones put in 20ths shim behind and fix heat problem . Found nos seals on eBay remove all the new star one and replaced all good now
Well install of pyrogauge went well. Somebody must have already turned up fuel with out trailer flat ground runs around 1000 up grade 1100 with trailer on grade stop pushing at 1200 so I am sure I over ran it last week . So is 1100 ok for steady running ? If so I'll turn down fuel a bit so it...