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Previous owner painted it, he used a stencil (= PITA). I just hope I never get in an accident and have to try an match the paint Doh!:shock: But yeah it is pretty unique, most peeps think it is a wrap when I drive around town.

Replaced old lights, sockets and lens's (big diff between old faded ones and new). Replaced the power steering hoses as I found they were leaking. Plus found that the steering gearbox bolts were loose so I tightened them as well.

The circled part is the where the mount bolt would go through and I was trying to show it was not a hole. The new motor mount was still halfway in, the second picture is after removing the mount to get a better look. I had to drop the starter (mostly) to get the bolt out. I was afraid that the...

wierd, I don't see how it would help but ok, thx for the replies!

yup found that out the hard way (or at least they were wrong part #) I looked up an old thread and found the right Napa part #, So I have the correct mounts, the question I have is do I need to replace the mount bracket that attaches to the engine? I'm thinking I do cause I cannot understand why...

Yeah but it is not the mount but the bracket and it is only on one side...

I am changing my motor mounts and I went to put the one on the passenger side and the bracket that attaches to the engine does not look right. Where I expected to see a bolt "hole" I see a bolt u shape. I just want to make sure this is bad before I order a new bracket. I am going to guess it...

I haven't read all the old threads but I have used the search a heck of a lot. I have fixed the charging system, rebuilt the alternator, done the Doghead relay mod, fuel filter mod, electric fuel pump mod, troubleshot and fixed the glow plug system, fuel system and probably a lot more I can't...

I never heard of MERDEC before now, that explains why the old camo paint job was different than the TM :tank:

When you do the door pin bushings can you show how you do it? I have bought some bushings as well but I don't see an easy way to change them nor have I found any youtube videos with my style hinges. I am trying to do it without taking the door off the vehicle as it's just me but I am out of...

Yes it does, thanks! So I have the colors correctly placed, although I am using a rattle can brown and black that are not original. The brown is darker but I like the look and it costs less :beer:

Wow you're quick! Thanks! Well I don't think I'll be painting them black, doesn't seem like it would look good to me. At least I know I did not reverse the colors which I want to get straight before I continue painting :shock:

I read the TM and I have color #1 being black, but after I painted the tailgate I noticed the wheel rims are #1 and that does not sound right for the rims to be black. Could someone take a look at the pic of the tailgate and tell me if I have the black and green reversed? Thanks in advance!

Sure, I got the different colors to match the color of the indicator. So green turn indicator gets a green light bulb. I realize I did not need to do this but since I had a choice of color I think it is a good idea. Also I changed the dash overall color to green, I like it better than the...

This is what I ordered from superbrightledsDOTcom QTY DESCRIPTION PRICE AMOUNT 11 WLED-G-120: Green 120 Degree $1.39 $15.29 1 WLED-A-120: Amber 120 Degree $0.79 $0.79 5 WLED-R-120: Red 120 Degree $0.79 $3.95 5 WLED-W-120: Cool White 120 Degree $1.39...

I changed mine to LED and am glad I did not choose the brightest ones because it is plenty bright. About the only thing I might still do is add a strip at the heater controls as it only has the one bulb. The picture is at dusk so at night if they were any brighter they would be irritating.

Yes the gear in the pic (sit under the gear that is sideways) just sits/rests/lays on the pin. It makes sense as it won't go anywhere once you install the sideways gear with the pin through it. You're welcome and thanks to all for their input to get me through it. :p

I got the nut broke free, I set the square nut on an anvil and whacked it with a big hammer which broke up the rust. I put the screw on the wire wheel and the nut spins like a top now:wink: I just finished welding up the tube, wish I had known how this went together before hand would have saved...

So all one needs to do is remove the top gear, pull the shaft it is attached too, once that is out of the way you pull up on the lower gear to expose the hidden pin underneath and viola you can now pull the entire lower leg out pop out the two pins that hold the "screw nut" to the lower leg and...

I got it!, luckily I tried to pry "up" on the gear and it has a hidden roll pin under it. I am uploading pics now that will explain it all.