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Interested to see what you come up with!

The Trans light comes on when power is turned on, but turns out after a few seconds. No flashing/illumination beyond that, until it's put into the code read mode, then only Code 22. Its shifting through the gears albeit roughly as @NDT pointed out, as if I were driving at full throttle. Thus...

Code 22 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor circuit low is the only one showing. Thanks for pointing out that the light might not illuminate, didn't consider that.

I did not realize that, I’ll check it out, thank you!

Took out the HMMWV for the 4th of July and all systems seemed fine, but it hung 1st gear until much higher in the RPMs (20+ mph 1-2 shift at mild throttle) and was a pretty rough shift when it finally did shift. Seemed to run through the gears, but all seemed late/rough, not stuck in 2nd/Limp...

Isn’t it a 1986?

Wow, an OG! Under 10,000 serial!

I have serial number 183XXX M1123, she took some sorting out when I got her, but I put 2,000 miles on her last year with no hiccups. This era/model may be missing some of the nicer features- rear fender AC, the hard top, turbocharger, winch, etc. but they’re light weight, simple, easy to wrench...

While not their intended use, would some 17” limiting straps attached to the stock shock mounting points do the trick? Seems like it would be some margin of safety keeping the spring in place while also keeping the entire assembly from overextending for the rare chance that one reaches full...

Is this a real risk? Obviously an instantaneous release of immense pressure is potentially deadly, but is it likely? I thought jeep guys ran setups like that, too.

I’m in Illinois where the HMMWV is verboten per the Lord of the Tumblers. I didn’t even bother with the DMV here and went with Dirt Legal to get it tagged/titled in Utah. This was several years ago at this point. It wasn’t cheap, but it was easy, I have a street legal title, despite still not...

I’m running 24v red LEDs on my gauges- M1123

Details? I’d love something louder, but I’m not going to be that guy with a Train Horn.

I don’t run the seat bottoms, but I do have the sides. My plan for the winter is to replace the wood slats with E-Track to secure taller loads.

Old thread, but related- My M1123 front differential INPUT s seems to have a good amount of play, about 1/2-3/4” of rotation before hitting resistance (wheels on ground, parking break set). This can make a “clunk” sound occasionally, but it’s small and hard to notice. This is a new one for me...

The old ones did, supposedly the new ones are good to go, from what I’ve read. I can’t confirm personally, though.

Would it be reasonable to run it all the time or are you glad you put on the Cepek’s? I did some scrounging earlier and it looks like a mid 2000s Pathfinder shocks would work, but require the stud to be threaded and mated to an eyehole converter. That or some shocks from a late ‘90s Chevy 1500...

@LouWon - Are you still running it without shocks? How does it handle at speed/corners? Do potholes/uneven roads really upset it? I'm running a softtop/doors (usually off) M1123 (non-MAK) and 95% of my driving is under 45mph. I would LOVE to soften the ride up a LOT for the sake of the...

I run the same setup. Aside from having to turn down the squelch when the doors are off, it works great and we can all communicate comfortably, even at speed.

Sometimes referred to as Dzus fasteners.