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I agree and am a big fan of the pictures. Capping off the WVO system will likely address the operating temperature issues but even if the WVO setup is later plumbed to work inline with the radiator, the engine will not make enough heat to warm the WVO tank. As it is, the WVO tank by itself is...

That's the way they come from the factory. Arguably, only one needs to be isolated but in order to make them identical it did not hurt to have both with isolated grounding.

No, the coolant system doesn't work that way. In fact, blocking up the flow of coolant is exactly how the thermostat works to regulate the engine's temperature. The only significant pressure that gets created in a cooling system on a normal automobile engine is from heat.

The delivery may not have suited, but the push button glow plug bit would be a pretty serious diagnostic tool as far as determing where your issue lies. It needn't be a permanent thing, nor even something mounted in the dash if you just need to test a cold engine to see if manually cycling the...

Assuming you have no part numbers on the device, post some pictures with a ruler positioned for reference. Assuming I can remember to this evening, I'll do the same. I still have two 24 volt direct drive units as well as a 12v gear reduction that had a shady rebuild that I can compare to on my...

If it is spinning too fast, it seems that your guy did put a 12v starter in. You can do the conversion, which doesn't take that long. If you do I suspect you'll want to jumper your under dash relay so that it won't be one extra piece to give you problems. Also, I suggest running a 2 gauge ground...

Advance sells a $50 electric diesel fuel pump that you can use in place of your lift pump. Not only is it easier to install, it makes bleeding the fuel system a lot easier when you don't need to crank the whole engine to do it. Unless you start developing some serious power, you won't need to...

No problem. Your plumbing decision bypassed the thermostat, not the extra volume of coolant. The volume of coolant is simply removing enough heat from your engine that it reaches equilibrium at 150 degrees instead of a temperature above 180 as it should. I don't know what your tank capacity...

They aren't designed for a voltage, just a specific torque. If it were the starter causing the issue failures would present in the ring gear where the two interact. In our case, the flexplate itself is designed to handle well over 250 ft/lbs so the 50 ft/lbs or so that the bendix gear is putting...

How do you have it plumbed? If you have routed your coolant like the heater core system, your thermostat would never enter into the equation. Even one gallon of oil is a fair amount of thermal mass to compete with, how many is your system trying to heat?

Perhaps an easier picture can be drawn; If you were to put a 12v starter into your cucv (without modifying the electrical system), it would turn over much faster than the 24v starter that is currently there. The issue simply comes down to how the windings in the starter are configured. A...

Well shoot. I got the new pump in there, forgot the throttle return spring, scared the **** out of myself, then got it buttoned up properly and it runs great...except for a fuel leak on at the back of the pump on one of the injector lines. Is it possible to tighten one of the lower connectors on...

You should pick up a DeLorean...I've found it gives the M1009 a Honda like quality by comparison.

As I recall, I just used a large crescent wrench because it was a square head type deal. I could be mistaken though as it has been a year since I was under the truck checking axle details. While I have it in my shop this evening, I'll roll under and take a look.

Pull the fill plug that's about 3/4's of the way to the top of the differential. If oil comes out, it is full. If not, add gear oil until it does.

Regarding that original pump, I didn't even take the top cover off. I didn't realize there was anything in there I needed to worry about and like I said...plenty of motivation to see if it would pop out, hehe. I learn by doing and generally that means doing it wrong at least once. I wanted to...

The cnc motor is designed to operate between those voltage ranges. I'm pretty sure those are stepper motors or at least pulse width controlled items though. You're not telling me that you believe all DC motors have to run at their rated maximum outputs at all times unless the voltage is adjusted...

Got it figured out. Found a nice little write up on the web that indicated the gear would stay put so long as I didn't get sporting and rotate the crankshaft after the injector pump was removed. So I now have a new injector pump...though with my original cap because the new pump has a 24v fuel...

You're right, voltage is pressure, amperage is volume. Horsepower, or watts, are derived values that are independent of any single aspect of a particular system. You absolutely can draw too much current and cause the voltage to drop. In this case, our system is how much work can a starter do...

That doesn't make sense to me. If I double the voltage, I should only need half the current to accomplish the same amount of work in a given period of time. If I double the voltage and supply the same amount of current, I have doubled the output power of the motor in question and the 24v...