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i will look to see if all the original wiring is still there for the glow plug controller, and if it is I'll order it with the plugs. Going back to all original is fine with me, the truck doesn't get 1,000 miles a year so stock is fine, I just want to hop in and drive like it was new with no issues.

I have no plans to change the system, simple stock is fine with me. The GP controller was a repeated failure so 16yrs ago it was swapped out to a push button and large 12v relay. It's worked fine this long so I wasn't even going to change back to original. The resistors are good and I didn't...

Thanks! I'll order 8 today. The GPs are on a push button, no automatic controller. Been like that for 16yrs. Either my wife of myself must have held the button too long. I'll blame her. Lol. We'll be more careful from now on how long we hear them for.

I've had my truck for about 5 years now and it's always fired right up no matter how cold it was. Even in 25* it fired up with no smoke of haze. The last time I went to drive it, it took some cranking to get it to fire up. The resistors are good, relay is good, all 8 glow plugs read OPEN with a...

I didn't even think about the volt meter, think I'll go check that out!!!

I can't believe these trucks are selling for that kind of money. Makes me feel a lot better about the $2,500 I paid for mine!

Not all oils are created the same. I used to use royal purple, but they changed their formula to match emissions. Going from plain Rotella to RP we were able to extend bottom end overhauls on out drilling rigs Detroit 149's from 8,000hrs to 25,000hrs. That's a huge increase and wear reduction...

That's a little louder than I want, I'm getting old. Lol. I think 2.5" pipes and some high flow mufflers would be a good increase. Or maybe bring them into a y pipe and single 3" out. I really like that bed you have on there!

Nevermind, I can use 12v switched and just run the ground wire all the way back to the battery -N-. That'll give me the 24v I need. Should have done all this while my shop AC was on.

Grounded the wire out and the light went off. Cleaned the contacts and pinched them closed a little so I grips tighter and put some electrolytic grease on. Works like a champ now! With that working now, that makes everything on the truck work perfect like new. Not bad for an old truck.

I need a little help installing a tach. I have a 24v diesel VDO tach out of a dozer that I'd like to hook up, but need 24v switched power. Is there any 24v switched supplies under the dash already? I wired it up temp to make sure it works, and it's dead on using the alt tap. I guess is worse...

Good video. All my other vehicles for the last decade have had magnaflow exhausts. Can't beat the flow they have. Back in 2001 I went from a 3" glass pack on my 2000 silverado to a 3" flow master 40 series and lost .7 in the 1/8 mile. Swapped to a 3" magnaflow and gained the .7 back while...

I have the stock exhaust on my truck still and it only has a couple pinholes at the end of the tailpipes. It works and it's quiet, but I'm thinking about some sort of aftermarket mufflers. Anything from cherry bombs, magnaflow, maybe even glass packs. The stock mufflers have to be pretty...

The low coolant light has been on since I've owned the truck. I've flushed the radiator and cooling system good and refilled with 50/50 mix. Light has been on since but today it went off for a few miles, then came back on. It lightly flickers from time to time now. It it finally annoyed me...

I use Walmart gallon jugs of TCW-3 2stroke in all my diesels. About 100:1 ratio. From my 05' duramax with over 300k miles and still perfect stock injectors, the new Passat TDI, cummins 12v, M1008, and even in my Mahindra tractor. I've tried some other additives, but best bang for the buck is...

Ok I think the frame needs pulled. The passenger frame rail is 3/8" further forward, so the fame is racked. It may also be slightly twisted. I'll get some quotes from good frame shops and see where I stand. I have a spare frame off a 2015 silverado 1500 crew cab short bed. May be worth the swap...

I've been thinking, this truck was used for 16yrs to pull school buses out of ditches. If the frame is racked a little it could possibly cause this. I need to get some frame cross measurements.

5.5" blocks in the rear. Body mounts are good. It has to be the frame tweaked loading the front corner.

I have a nice shop with a level floor, it was all installed correct and not tightened till weight was on it. If the frame is tweaked the load on the wheels will show it. I have a buddy with a set of tire scales, maybe I can see how much weight is on each corner.

I'm on the edge of Cut N Shoot but pass through Montgomery fairly often. Definitely give me a heads up, it'd be nice to check out some other toys.