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For those who are looking, you can find Peter's coils at Peter Debella Jeep Parts. From his home page, look under Truck Catalogs, then click "Dodge 3/4 M37". The coil current shows up on the main M37 page, but if that ends up getting replaced, just go to the M37 Electrical section. Peter...

I have the Dodge M37 Restoration Guide kicking around somewhere. It came with my truck when I bought it a couple of years ago. You may want to get a look at one before spending big bucks for a copy. I found it interesting, but not really all that useful as a restoration guide. I'd never pay...

Midwest Military is another place to check for parts. Adirondak Dodge Parts has some as well.

Yours is the stock set up. Top is the hand throttle, bottom is the choke.

Great image there... I tend to think of my truck as a "fast tractor" (it beats thinking of it as a slow truck). If you do electric reversing, you may want to limit the top speed. Scary to think of someone expecting it to work like a normal vehicle, and then find out it will go full speed in...

I'm curious about the decision to keep the transmission. Couldn't the electric motor just turn a driveshaft going directly to the transfer case? Eliminating the transmission would be the equivalent of driving in 4th gear all the time. (Minus the friction and weight of the transmission.) You'd...

Any updates on how this is going?

When I first got my M37 in 2019, I looked at Hagerty. Their rates were very reasonable: something like $200 or $250/year (including collision and comprehensive for a truck that would be driven regularly here in VT. (I have a standard registration, since I did not want to be subject to the...

I don't find my M37 difficult to shift - either before or after the transmission was rebuilt. 1st and 2nd gear are not synchronized, so you will need to double clutch to shift into them .- Or you can "rev match" (shift into neutral, then get the engine going at the RPMs it would be if you...

Here is the light switch page from TM9-2320-212-10

My apologies if my trouleshooting post was too basic for you. It sounds as though you are rather experienced at this sort of thing. Sometimes it's hard to tell when communicating over the internet.

For those without a clamp on ammeter, you can also use a voltmeter: just disconnect the positive battery lead and connect the volt meter between the cable and the positive battery post. It won;t tell you how MUCH of a drain you have, like an ammeter will, but if you see voltage, something is...

They allow the use of standard, modern plug but make a waterproof connection and work with the rest of the truck's water proof ignition system. If you have a 12 V system, you probably no longer have the waterproof distributor with the ignition coil mounted inside, and the plug wires which...

I have those adaptors. Can't recall what plugs I have inside them, but they have worked just fine since the day I converted from the 12V ignition that was on the truck when I bought it back to a 24V system (Pertronix electronic ignition). The conversion was done earlier tis year. I've got about...

Freaked me out the first time I was poking around under there.

That plug is only installed when you are doing fording operations. If you are not driving through deep water, it is left open. I dont have the plug for my truck, but I believe it was stored in the glove compartment - worth a look to see if there is one there on your truck.

There are winches made to run off of hydraulics. Mile-Marker is one manufacturer - they make some great hydraulic winches, including some that are two speed, so you can get higher speeds for lighter loads, but still have a powerful winch at lower speed for the heavy stuff. If you are looking...

I'm using 10W-30 based on the technical manual's recommendation of 10 weight for the temperatures I see in the winter, and 30 weight for the temps I see the rest of the year. I'm using a full synthetic which has zinc additives (Amsoil Z-rod 10W-30) specially for these older engines. Many modern...

Mounting an electric winch is simple on a non-winch M37 bumper. Just cut a hole in it for the cable and bount a fairlead to it. (I may know someone here in VT who would be willing to sell an M37 non-winch bumper.) You will not need the frame extensions which were added to accommodate the LU-4...

Before pulling it, is there a chance the linkage needs to be adjusted? You mentioned "lightly driving it". If that was recently, what is the likely hood things have rusted up since that drive?