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I had original wood in mine when I got it and used them for templates. I did use 3/4 inch birch veneer plywood rather than 1/2 though. I sealed them first with 2 coats of sanding sealer then painted them.

I cannot imagine how I could have done my frame off restoration on my M37 with out John at MWM. Though I bought stuff from others when it came to some special items like the wire harness, paint and canvas John was always the first place and in most cases the only that I needed to go. He was...

I would pull it and tear it down. It may run but you could be facing a catastrophic failure. A knock is never a good thing. These engines were also poorly balanced so consider having that done when you have it apart. Check the TM's for valve clearance. T Highway is correct that yours are to...

Hey Storm, As usual you are spot on. I have to agree with your earlier post. My truck owns me too, but I am glad I bought her and we have a lot of fun and good memories.

You can get the mil spec adapter from VPW or MWM. My induction clip works just fine on this.

I had mine done at a radiator shop that deals with the vintage car guys. The inside was coated with a material used by the aircraft industry the outside was coated with a rust proofing and it came with a lifetime warranty. If interested I can send you the info.

I have purchased from New Life and Beachwood. For awhile the lady at New life was working alone and told me up front my custom order would take awhile which was no problem. Beachwood did my cab top and it fit perfect and the work was outstanding. Both seem to be solid companies run by good folks.

It is actually an Auto Lite number I will see if I can get it for you. Here you go, 2245 is what I am running.

Curious as to why you are using the WW2 Combat Rims. To my knowledge the M37 always used the split rim Budd Wheels.

Okay I get it. Nice to see a Navy version. I can not recall seeing one previously. I think I have only seen one USAF version.

I have question, Wondering at what point you plan on putting the color on your project. I pretty much did mine piece by piece as I assembled it or did it in sub assemblies. It took longer but seemed to make thing easier.

Hope the person who bought it is a SS member so we can follow what he is doing.

Thanks Storm.

I knew Storm would be our answer guy on the canvas. Not sure exactly what the firewall tag is used for. I had my original cab tub and a replacement cab tub from a donor truck both had the tags and both had different numbers. They also seem to have a prefix and suffix system to them because of...

Pretty sure the command truck used different bows with the command truck kit. Storm should be able to help you. I do not recall ever seeing the command version used by the USMC but that is just based on my service from 70 - 78.

The tag with the rounded corners is normally found under the hood on the upper right hand corner of the fire wall held in place by two small phillips head screws. To find the spot, match up the holes.

Sort of looks French maybe you have a Canadian engine which I believe is 250 CI displacement. Measure the bore and stroke and check it against data in the TM. Looks like everything is .030 over or under depending if you are talking bore or bearing journals. I am just guessing right now based...

Getting the steering wheel off is the tricky part. Remove the nut from the steering wheel place it in a vise and soak it with penetrating oil or ATF for a few days. Pull the horn wire. Insert a 1/2 X 1 inch bolt into the hole in the shaft. Place a bearing splitter under the steering wheel...

I noted today the little thumbs up icon with the thanks notation for when someone replies to your thread. I tried to figure out how to do this but no luck for this computer challenged old guy. Can someone enlighten me?

I would not waste time with the cracked case. Call John at Midwest Military he should be able to help you. If not try Vintage Power Wagon. AB Linn sells a lot on E Bay so you could check him too.