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The OP was asking about backpreassure. Didn't see anything in the OP about a stopped engine.

cam overlap has a lot to do with it. A motor with a lot of cam overlap will suck the intake charge right out the tailpipe if run with two little backpreassure. It'll make a lot aof noise, and loose a lot of power. Comparing a warbird to a drag racer to a street truck is usesless without...

Someone needs additional job responsibilities.

The chrome rear handle you may be stuck with.

Filtering it is important. WVO from a food establishment may have salt, and all kinds of other nasty stuff mixed into it. It is possible to process WVO into bio-diesel. I've only run actually pump bio diesel (soybean oil) myself in previous diesels...if my cucv ever makes it out of the...

In the same boat here. old pump is out, new pump is ready to go in. Rain is vengeful.

Nostalgia air has an underdash unit that appears to be the cheapest/easiest/ugliest route. Don't know if anyone has done one of the underdash versions yet...I plan on trying it some day.

Yeah, it would fry a mutlimeter.

yes. You'd want to use a clamp on ammeter, I would imagine. But you could read the actual current draw. Mind you, the current draw I posted was free spinning, no load. The actual current draw when turning a motor will be a whole lot more than that.

well, it gets a bit more complicated than that. You're dealing with coils of wire(inductors) not straight resistance. You are dealing with an increased voltage/current drop across the cables with a lower voltage. It's been more than 20 years since I was an electronic engineering major, so I'd...

does it fit all the way around with no element in it?

According to Delcoremy, the manufacturer of the starter (talking about the gear reduction version here) 12volt pulls between 125-190 amps 24 volt pulls between 75-90 amps Bench test readings. no load RPM of the 12 volt is 3000-5600 RPM of the 24 volt is 3600-5400 So the 24 volt version...

It's not as simple as ohms law when dealing induction and electric motors. Once coils and magnets get into the equation, the math gets more complicated.

Yeah, not really sure where shows or rallys come into it

autozone has regional pricing...around here its less than a grand, but still way too much.

so, I went looking for the one missing bolt today. The auto parts store had grade 8, 8mm 1.25 bolts, but they were too long. I went to the Chevy Stealership and they looked it up on their computer and said it was a special bolt, and the nearest one was in Ohio, at a cost of nearly 5 bucks each...

I got one from KR on Ebay...wound up being 270 or so after they give me my core deposit back.. Other people on here have had good luck with them. I wouldn't say it would take a whole day for someone who works on it regularly It's taking forever for me to do it, but I've got a screwed up...

Yes, but it will cost way too much.

It's possible the dealer did it. I don't trust anything that guy told me at this point. and it had PSA on the doors -- nobody seems to know what that means. It came from operational test command at fort hood originally. Bout to head out there and finish hooking up the new pump as soon as I...

I wish they made those things in my size.