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thanks man.... your assistance was appreciated and very helpful.... like i said in the warmer weather ill try to replace the purple starter wire... for now shes working.... ready for work.... we are in single digits and blustery winds for the week.... up here in the salt box salt damage...

all is well in the great white north... truck started ice cold..... and i located a working Voltmeter:clinto: and in case u wanna see the old Girl my salty and now trusty 86 M1008

well I believe i am truly cursed... updated the starter relay (doghead upgrade) only to find 10.3 V on the purple wire at the starter solenoid. so I go to check and clean/ or replace the purple feed in the bulkhead connector. only to have the bolt holding it together snap...

yes the voltmeter was donated from a model railroader who had had a couple spares. its old..

here is a picture of the one i want to use....

ahhaaha OK the interweb police are watching. thanks Warthog. your help was great as I might have eventually gotten to that lead.. but you saved me time. as I said after reading alot of this forum i have yet to see the problem i had... I do think i need to do the doghead upgrade because...

ok here is stupidity,,,, i was thinkin,,, hmmm wonder if i need to plug the alternator in.... YUP..nasa I have GEN2 light now its time to charge the batteries since i have been running the tests Key on.....

repairs made.. crimp connector soldered and shrink tubed... connected batteries turned truck on... i have about 22v and +/- 22v at volmeter in truck in voltmeter plug, but no GEN2 light. :evil: BUT... I have 22.08 V at brown exciter wire even with NO GEN2 llight... wierd....:???:

think I found the issue... :jumpin: the wire broke off the back side and cleaned out the cavity if the copper oxide... clipped it back to good copper wire... 25.36v hmmm think that could be the issue? went to the bone yard and pulled a engine side bulkhead connector off and removed a...

hmmmmm Warthog, i was reviewing post number 15 and the schematic.... sounds like "IF" this wire is the problem, i should disable my "fix" to the starter for the time being.... I could create a schematic of how it is wired now to clarify, but first things first... get 24 V to that pin and...

in this cold I think i will have better luck replacing that pin and putting a new fusible link in and see whats up. the truck runs fine but ill have to resort to opening the hood and charging the back battery,,, PITA. now i wish i had the slave plug so i could "make" a 24v charger so the...

talked to one member who is parting these in the hudson valley to see if he had the cab side harness.. didnt catch the handle... just saw the ad on here.

oh joy... :) i thought about that yesterday when it was 5 out... broke or discovered a bad pin that feeds the 24v in the pass thru. hope my ham hands can get the bad pin ( spade) to release out of the connector and i can find one... i have rebuilt several engine harnesses in the past...

black wire is the jumper to my starter solenoid /relay just out of the picture.. the red wire on neg buss is the ground for the relay. and yes i noticed the nut missing and the 2ga ground strap on it was not attached.... I have better luc when things have not been "tampered with by previous...

oh i could post a ton of pictures of my Iron.... my stable includes 1968 chevy K20 292, 1968 GMC K1500 V6, 1973 K20 suburban, 1973 El camino, 1974 K20 pickup,1974 K5, 1976 K20 grass fire truck, 1986 M1008, 1993 K2500 suburban, 1996 Caprice 9c1 unmarked cop car... I have a few....LOL

as promised.. here is my busses with the covers off... If you could mark or indicate which wire needs to be replaced /repaired it would be grateful its getting colder and dark here... Oh yeah Ive replaced pins/ tabs in the engine side pass thru before... not fun on a nice day...

CPF240 relay was replaced.... Warthog.... yes it sounds like im screwed till it gets warm.... I have learned alot reading your wiring help and I looked over F-1 and thought... hmmm maybe that is the culprit, but nahhhhh couldnt be.... i was tracing circuits on f4 and f9 I just took a...

that terminal yields 12.3 v... but then it broke off.. tested the "stub" left inside still 12.3v

contacts cleaned.... no change... ill split it again and test that pin... its too cold to stay out very long... BRB

it sounds stupid but ill split the connector and clean the factory grease off the corresponding pins.... it is 5 balmy degrees in the sun up here in upstate NY in the "POLAR VORTEX" miserable..