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Sounds like a sticky starter drive. Pull the starter and spray the drive gear and shaft. Pay attention when you loosen the bolts and see if you hear the drive retract.

Try tapping on the starter solenoid with a hammer.

Well my replacement group 26 Value Power batteries are now failing. Have been monitoring the new solar charge controller and saw they were slowly going down towards the 24V level. Today was test day and while they had got back up to 24.4 and started the generator fine the charge indicator on the...

Our panel and power back alarm is in the garage. We keep a pair of hearing protectors in the utility room. I highly suggest putting on a pair before approaching the power back alarm to turn it off. None of my gauges worked and the one I got working was way off in accuracy. Going digital was a...

So this generator is a total different animal. I was thinking 803 with remote control and no TQ case. http://www.jatonkam35s.com/MEP-003a/MEPTechnicalDataSheets.pdf

I pour the specified amount of Stanadyne lubricity formula in at every delivery. It isn't much. One bottle does both of my 55 gallon drums. I also add the specified amount of Killum biocide. Last winter I threw in some anti gel additive for good measure.

If you devloped or had a problem like I did it would show up as an overall voltage drop. It wasn't until I checked the individual lines that I found mine was only dropping on L1.

No. It can vary depending on load or resistance. My unit had a problem with voltage dropping on L1 under load. Both lines remain steady now that it's fixed.

Why isn't it reading line voltage on L1 and L2?

My unit was stenciled JP fuel only. Would that be an indication it only had JP fuel run in it or not necessarily?

Here was the fuel pressure/volume test I performed on my 803 just out of curiosity. My test was within the specs listed in the manual so they don't require a lot. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?170390-Fuel-Pumps-and-Fittings-MEP-803a&p=2044537&viewfull=1#post2044537 A Spectra...

All you have to do is remove the belt and tensioner bolt. Then you can loosen the pivot bolt and roll it down to get to the block drain.

Glad you got it and hope it works out for you.

Was that the one on the PC craigslist?

Just siphoned mix into mine.

That's some kind of makeshift aux fuel connector. The original looks like the items in this thread. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?171024-Generator-AUX-fuel-connections

The only options I would consider would be refund or discount. The discount path would have to be very significant. I would lean towards the refund path. I am trying to wrap my head around why he took your money in the first place if he knew he couldn't figure the problem out and correct it in 6...

If they can't find a hole they will settle for any surface. I have had them clog the ignition slot on my lawn tractor twice. Had to dig and dig and spray with WD40 till I could get the key in.

Called Scotty this morning and told him what I had. He didn't think he had what I needed so I didn't ride by. I have been to him twice with hydraulic needs and both times ended up back at Capital Rubber. Would be nice to have someone on this side of town for hydraulic stuff but seems Capital...

And good luck finding just the fittings. Seems all the generic suppliers I have looked at jump over -5