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I went the Alaskan Camper route. You can get a flatbed model 'plop-on' in whatever length you specify, or standard 10 ft NCO (non-cabover). Set it on the truck bed, tie it down, and go. Set it off and have a normal truck. A side benefit is that the collapsible Alaskan fits tightly within the...
Danged if I know. Maybe a 1 mm pitch, fine thread, instead of 1.5? Thought they had to be metric. Everything else on the truck seems to be.
SAE 5/16 was tried but maybe not fine thread.
What is the thread size for the X1, X2, and X3 test/power points in the PdP?
I have gone through my Metric bolts and don't find a match. Must be a seldom used thread pitch.
What a wonderful picture tour, thanks Mike. I have been a customer for a while too, since about 1963. My Fair Radio catalog collection starts in 1967. Fair Radio has influenced many hams!
If liquid balancing fluid migrates out eventually, which would seem logical, some would have to accumulate in the air passage void around the axle inside the axle housing. Any leaks in the seals would allow fluid into wheel bearings during CTIS cycles, and we would never know it.
The big issue...
I also had a speedometer that had no dip switches, so they certainly exist. I swapped mine out for a programmable one.
Another option that gets mentioned rarely is a GPS speedometer. Depending on which reseller you try to buy a speedometer from, the GPS one might be economical.
Once an old belt, or even a new one, gets glazed, it's going to slip. The V-pulleys get slick too. I have have had good luck scrubbing the pulleys with rough sand paper, and of course change the belt. Yes you can change all the belts without tilting the cab. It takes time to work them over...
I haven't seen this mentioned, the speed sensor that warns of CTIS overspeed is now at half speed. There won't be a warning or an auto bump up to HWY speed at '40' mph. Guess it would happen at 80, ha ha.
And my odometer reads exactly half what it used to read. i have to double odometer...
Wouldn't that risk grounding the midpoint of the 24 volt series string? Unless the radio has a floating ground on the neg/common power cable (which I have never seen). Be careful.
As BelinNC said, that adjustment most likely is the cause of lack of clutch. Set the gap first (recalling 1/16" slack, piston to arm gap) using the bolts on the slave, then use the adjustable link between piston and arm to get proper pedal free-play of an inch or more. The gap is to insure...
Flatwerx, I am happy with the 3.07 ratio by itself and would not consider adding the eco hubs to the 3.07. Even with the 3.90 with eco hubs I feel a less positive shift in the Allison if under load (steep hill, towing). I don't like a soft shift and guess the ECO on top of the 3.07 might...
The LMTV is not even close to the trail/offroad capability of the U1300 even with the camper so my decision was made for other reasons. When a large camper is added to a Unimog, even the low impact Alaskan, the places the Unimog could, or more correctly would, be taken are greatly reduced...
I have one, 1988, OM366A, fast axles (fire truck) plus Claas OD. Great trucks. I simply set an Alaskan camper in mine. An Alaskan ten foot no cab-over works perfectly. Power-wise I can't tell the camper is there but it cost about 1 mpg on fuel, totally acceptable. I retired mine from...
I propose that the mechanical connection to the gearbox sets the end limits of the wipers. If the wipers still have the original sweep end points the mechanical linkage has not slipped. The "park" position is probably an electrical switch which might move. if you operate a wiper motor on the...
Got my set and installation was completed a few days ago. The truck drives fantastic as described in other posts so I won't duplicate.
If you have any concern about needing a video, you probably don't. The process is simple and covered well by the included instructions. One note though, the...
Your description includes some challenges. First, no air leaks, yet the pedal goes to the floor. That should mean that full system air pressure has been proportionally applied to the braking system in both front and rear circuits as you increased foot pedal pressure. Yet you describe no...
An oil analysis (Like from Blackstone) would be informative. The type metal of the wear products is important. If there is no indication of bearing material you might get really lucky.
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