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That sleeve looks like it's a discardable sealing surface sleeve. Guessing it's pressed or shrunk on probably with 609 Loctite so it doesn't move or spin. That will be entertaining. If it's on there with green sleeve retaining compound (609) you will have to heat it to get it off and usually an...
Yeah - Chris's was warped so much I couldn't deck it with my normal manual method. Too much material had to be removed. And it's steel which takes FOREVER by hand with glass.
It's on the body of the switch and should be spliced to the existing ground and the existing ring terminal serviced or the whole ground wire and terminal replaced. They come like this. The large black cable with the ring terminal is the switch ground. Without that ground the switches will burn up.
Check the switch ground lead first. Some of the early push-button switches were not effectively grounded and they revised the switch to have a larger and better connected ground strap and it MUST be securely grounded to the dash. It's a seperate ground wire all on its own - not part of the...
Well that's interesting. Most of the 3126's had them at one point. IDK if perhaps some early or late one's didn't have them. As was mentioned the box is not always shown in the TM's depending on where you are looking. I know it's in the electronic parts manuals for the A1's because I tracked it...
The wiring harness shielding is for EMI/RFI suppression and nothing is likely to interfere with the power supply circuits to the ECM..... it's really just a mil spec requirement for non-interference in case you happen to be driving near high-powered search radar arrays, etc (and more for the...
Don't trust that cable! Ohm testing won't tell you $hit. Throw it away. Cut off the truck side connectors (throw them away) and permanently crimp the wires together. And yes that cable is your problem or the truck side connectors. The issues is in the back side of the connectors where they are...
Yep - that's the one. Check those connections. And NOT WITH A METER. You have to check with it plugged in and loaded. Digital Meter won't tell you $hit.
The triangle connection you are calling a "jumper" is the J1939 termination resistor - one of the two hangs out near the ECM. The other is under the PDP. Put that back after verifying that it is at 120 Ohms. WIthout it the J1939 bus will not function. You can't read voltage on that without a...
And the ABS will complain if it loses the J1939 bus. AFAIK it's the only module that seems to care enough to complain about it. I've seen burnt termination resistors bring down the bus on several trucks.
But the bus going down won't stop the engine from running. As long as the ECM has ignition...
ABS gets mad if there's a ground issue with the cab - have encountered that before. Check the ground strap behind the grill on the passenger side of the radiator tunnel. Check for voltage drop from the cab to the frame.
Connect a J1939 scan tool or laptop with CAT ET to the truck and see if the...
Did you test the batteries with them disconnected? 12.2v is ~40% discharged or one bad battery - probably can't deliver full amps.
You have classic symptoms of discharged battery or bad cell (if those readings were with batteries in parallel).
Remove batteries from truck. Fully charge AND...
FMTV's don't use this switch. They use a German column switch that has integrated wiper, washer, and horn controls.
https://secoparts.net/products/fmtv-lmtv-mrap-turn-signal-switch-6220-01-376-3676-12417597-m1078-m1079-m1080
If I were to go the 24v commercial route - I like the pad mount option as well. If you don't have the time to scour every corner of the surplus world and wait for the right deal to happen along I think I would definitely investigate that option.
It's also worth noting that if you have a...
Military trucks in general start out in light discipline mode by default where nothing works till you select either service drive or park. Once you turn on the headlights all the other systems will function. With the headlights switch in "off" NOTHING in the lighting system will function.
Well - as flat as you can get it because chances are it's warped when you take it off. Till you can't see light under your straight edge. Any cylinder head shop can do this easily.
There's a CAT service bulletin about the cooler warpage issue:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10090065-6903.pdf
It's for C7's but this is literally what we think ended @ckouba's HEUI pump on his 2001 3126b.
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