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A fire.

That grill mounting point doesn't seem that structural to me - also not sure if it would fit the A1R grill...... If I were designing this I would put some large plates against the front of the cab to spread the load and riv-nut them in place. I'm not seeing anything supporting the whole front...

Many surplus tires have been on a tire carrier and that WILL warp them in the axial plane. I had a temporary tire and wheel from a spare tire carrier and you could see it wobble axially in the rearview mirror.

Yes - it's on the grab handle mounting bolt on the passenger side of the dash right? That one relies on the one under the grill to get back to the frame and ultimately the battery negative.

You need a J1939 scan tool, or a laptop with CAT ET. As @Lostchain said - you are just spinning your wheels and wasting diagnostic time till you talk to the computer (or not if it's the problem) and look at live data. 3126b or C7 truck? The 3126b had a deprecated EMI/RFI filter box on the...

Yeah - since I ended up moving both ends it would have been just as easy to get a new strap and forget about the old one. But now we know!

I've seen a huge voltage drop on that cab ground strap on a 3 year old A1P2 - the voltage drop was causing all the lighting and dash gauges to go out, the ABS had a code stored for retarder relay control. Oshkosh didn't remove the paint on the cab stud and the star washer didn't pierce it...

It's behind the grill - on the passenger side of the radiator tunnel. Other end is under the cab mount rubber stop on the frame and isn't even accessible for a picture. Have to disconnect the CTIS air lines, cut a bunch of zip ties to move wiring and AC hoses then throw tools and swear at if for...

Don't neglect the cab ground under the grill. That one is a TERRIBLE design on both ends. Cab side is laughably poorly designed - on my truck the weld for the stud is so proud of the surface that the star washer they "installed" under the cable just hovers in mid air about 1/8" off the cab...

If you just drive the truck regularly they will true up on their own. Also having a working CTIS system with the wiring mod for multiple highway pressure settings or manual control is VERY useful. You can simply drive the speed you want and alter the tire pressure dynamically while you are...

Isn't the point of the tapered lug nut to ensure it's centered? These aren't hub-centric wheels - those would use flat lug nuts. I mean - it can't hurt. I just use three of the lug nuts and run them down in stages and then visually confirm the wheel was centered in this step before locking them...

The ECM shouldn't require stripping anything really. You can snake them out - sometimes it helps to move the PS reservoir. Here's the A1R cooler. It uses bolts and lock nuts to attach it to the hanger.

I just deleted that drivers side upper bolt "fork" from the cooler mount. It's stupid and redundant - that bracket isn't going anywhere with just the three bolts remaining. To get that bolt loose I had to modify a box wrench and even then it was an absolutely horrible job to get that bolt out...

He posted at 5:43 AM this morning (post #23) so it appears to my browser that he's still checking on the conversation.

@Lostchain has had similar "issues" with balance beads - don't seem to do anything useful. I've said it before and I really haven't changed my mind despite my tests with anti-freeze, etc as dynamic balancing - these tires don't have balancing issues for the most part. They DO absolutely suffer...

Lots of guys have upgraded to the A1R style Trimark paddle handles. There's videos covering the topic on youtube. They are essentially mildly customized RV door handles. They aren't particularly that much cheaper than the older style but they are stronger and they look the part.

I know enough to be dangerous with HVAC - I own a repair/performance shop and so to buy refrigerant and legally work on AC systems in vehicles you must complete SAE training to get the license or they won't sell you the stuff (in bulk anyway - you can buy small cans over the counter but not the...

I don't think they worried about low pressure - they may have wanted the system to run even if it was slightly low on charge. But that's just a guess. I guess it could be a binary switch but I don't have any evidence one way or the other without asking Red Dot besides the nomenclature not...

I went with a more common trinary switch threaded into an adapter w/shrader on the drier. The stock military system has seperate fan switch and high pressure switch. I don't think the original systems had low pressure switches. The new systems in the A1P2's have intelligent monitoring boxes that...

If anyone needs the recovery disc image for the MSD-V2 (Windows XP version 1.1) - I'm going to image the one I have and post it to archive.org