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If it was running good then suddenly lost fuel to filter, I would start with replacing the mechanical fuel pump before digging into the fuel lines. It's still better to test the old pump, but they are relatively inexpensive, relatively easy to replace, and it's not uncommon for them to fail, so...
I found with mine I could press down hard on the belt at the top between the idler pulleys and slip it off the pulley, and that let all the tension off of it. No tools needed.
For converters, there are plenty of cheap chinese made ones out there, but you'd want to install it with a relay or switch so it turns off when not in use. Or you can buy a good quality one with the relay built in and all you have to do it get it wired to a switched 24V supply, like ignition or...
yes, you definitely want a converter. There have been people that ran loads off of just one battery in the past that ended up having catastrophic battery failures as a result of the load imbalance.
If the guy installing the sound system thinks you can just hook to one battery in a 24V system...
As Mogman said, the 60 amp does just fine once rebuilt. It's just an older design so it requires more maintenance, but for the cost of changing out to a 200 amp you can rebuild the 60 amp dozens of times.
You could also change out to a civilian 24V alternator. Does take a little fabrication...
Look at it this way.
For a 60 amp, you can spend the $100 or so on a new regulator and brushes, and install yourself.
If you decide to wait until it completely fails, you could spend $600+ on a new start box, a couple hundred on new batteries, and even more on anything else that gets damaged...
liquid sandpaper is just a chemical alternative to sanding, to remove the gloss layer on the set resin to allow primer to bond to the fiberglass better.
I see no reason why you can't treat it like any other fiberglass paint prep if that is all they do.
Then just use a primer rated for...
Not sure the specifics of how it's wired, but I assume the motor has 2 connections; one for power in and the other ground.
If you have 24V at the motor, and then have continuity from the other side of the motor to ground, it's likely a bad motor.
Of course you can check to see if the motor...
The ones I had that were pretty stuck I used tire lube all around the rim, then got a cheap tire spoon from harbor freight and went around the rim, tapping it in with a hammer. That would let the tire lube (or just soapy water will work if you want) to get into that area. Basically acts like...
I'd be embarrassed too. With the nonsense speak they start out their description with, I'd be hesitant to try any of their products. WTF does "powered by a multi regional synergy" even mean?
black smoke under acceleration can also be caused by an air intake restriction, not just faulty injectors or having the fuel system turned up.
If it's not smoking until the acceleration, then it's probably not an injector issue, as a faulty injector with bad spray pattern will give smoke at...
Some people do stainless and don't have any real issues, but those people tend to live in places like deserts or whatnot that don't have a lot of moisture.
High humidity areas, and especially areas with saltwater, galvanic corrosion will totally wreck the aluminum.
Even when bolting steel...
According to the manual, before you are supposed to have the geared fan driveshaft removed to do the belt replacement.
Looks like 14 bolts and 4 grease fittings need removed to pull the shaft out. I don't personally know if there is a way to do it with just some of the bolts removed, but if...
This is a common question over on the HMMWV forums, and the answer is usually "so you want to destroy your batteries?"
Even a small draw on only one of the batteries will cause a charge imbalance. In the short term it wouldn't really do much, but as time goes on the upper battery in series will...
It might work, it might do nothing, or it might fry your electrical system. I don't know which of the three it will do, but it's your truck so you are more than welcome to try it and see what happens. Just let us know the outcome, be it good or catastrophic.
Other people have contacted...
3118 is for the 400 amp
3135 is for the 200 amp or 100 amp.
3119 is for the 100 amp
There are several others, such as N3114 having the same NSN as N3117, and both of those working in place of the 3135 on the 200 amp, though I believe the N3135 is a newer version.
So to answer why not, because...
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